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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jm94 View Post
    I meant about mixing the 2 halves of the blix concerntrate in seperate working solutions (bleach and fix), if they do not need to be combined to do their action and could therefore be used as seperate bleach and fix.
    Aha, I see. I've never tried and I'm not sure if part A is just bleach and part B just fixer (or vice-versa). Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me can help with that.
    Steve.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by jm94 View Post
    If i did the math and mixed the concerntrates 1L at a time, (as opposed to 5), mixing the apropiate ammounts of A B and C for the developer for 1L, and the same with the blix, do the concerntrates unmixed keep?
    Colour developer Part B goes bad quicker than the rest (I've heard that part A can also be sensitive). Once you've opened a bottle you can decant it into smaller glass bottles which can be stored in the fridge. This Kodak PDF will help you to mix the correct amounts of concentrate:

    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...is49/cis49.pdf
    Steve.

  3. #13
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    "Colour developer Part B goes bad quicker" - You beat me to the punch on that one. Yes, it is the part with the colour developing agent. I have a whole whack of tiny amber bottles from essential oils I buy for soap making that once rinsed in a lye solution then washed are great for keeping the air off of B. I have also been known to keep a small box of these bottles in the bottom shelf of the frdige to further attempt to slow thier demise.

    My memory says 50mL of A, 23.5 of B, and 50 of C, but it does not tell me if this is per litre, or per 2L, as I usually mix 2L at a time. I use childrens medicine cups and liquid syringes from my kids cough syrup etc to aid in accuracy of measuring such small amounts.

    The other trick I use to get longer life out of the developer is to pre boil and then cool reverse osmosis or distilled water used to mix the working solutions to room temp overnight with the lid on the pot. This drives off dissolved gases, the oxygen component of which will partially oxidize the CD before you even let it see a print.

    I use nitrogen gas to top off larger glass bottles with an inert blanket. I have also heard of people using propane or butane, but I am not crazy about keeping flamable gas cylinders in the darkroom. I have also used a commenrcial gas mixture sold in an aerosol type can that is used to gas blanket fine wines and scotch whiskeys. It worked well. Then I got a good deal on a nitrogen cylinder and pressure regulator.
    my real name, imagine that.

  4. #14

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    I could try using deodorant to expel the air, the prime gas components of it being propane or butane. The essensial oils bottles isnt a bad idea, i have a few of them banging about.

  5. #15

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    I use the glass amber bottles that Boots sells hydrogen peroxide in. My wife uses it for some cleaning application or other. I enjoy buying a few at a time as the Boots checkout staff have clearly been briefed about the potential for terror groups to use it. This always makes the checkout staff get twitchy and ask me odd questions which I avoid.
    Steve.

  6. #16
    paul_c5x4's Avatar
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    Boots will sell you the empty bottles if you ask (at least my local store will) - Ask at the dispensing counter..

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