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  1. #1

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    No luck with Fuji Crystal Archive Type II

    So I've been through a box of 11x14 trying to get a print without some kind of crazy color cast with no success. I've printed portra 160nc with tetenal, arista, and silver pixel chemistry and cannot get rid of the cyan/green color cast.. There is either too much green, or instantly too much magenta. Not to mention the very cool color balance overall. The data sheet specifies the fuji chemistry that the paper is designed for, but I can't seem to find a source for it- plus, I'm printing in trays right now.

    Has anyone had decent success with this paper yet? I have prints on the wall from Fuji 160s printed on old Type C, and I love them. This new stuff seems unusable with Kodak Portra.

  2. #2
    hpulley's Avatar
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    The Kodak Ektacolor RT kit seems to work well with Fuji CA Type II. It is cooler than Kodak Supra but I find that too warm at times. For me it is just about 10 less magenta and yellow on the dichroic head.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  3. #3

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    Great success here

    I've only recently began color work, and my second stab at it was with Fuji Crystal Archive type II with excellent results. I use the ARISTA 2 LITER RA-4 chemistry from Freestyle. I analyze the first print with a color print viewing kit and by the third print, usually, I have acceptable color.

    I have not tried the paper with Portra - so thank you for the warning! I shoot mostly Fuji Reala and Superia 400, with Kodak Gold 100 & 200 being my other favorites. The paper certainly seems to work well with the Fuji films.
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  4. #4

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    Glad to hear it, but are you printing portra? With that arista kit, the closest I could get was 0Y 45M 10C and the cast was still very cyan/magenta.. I'll have to try out the kodak chems I suppose, but I thought the silver pixel stuff is quite similar..

  5. #5

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    Is the color cast in all areas of the print including the white border? Could it be contamination? Are you using a safelight? Is it the correct one? Could light from the enlarger be bouncing off something and fogging the paper? And lastly, do you have a scan that you can show us?

  6. #6
    hpulley's Avatar
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    I'm printing Ektar, Reala, 400NPH, Superia 400/800, Portra 160NC/160/400VC/400 and old Kodacolor, Agfacolor, et al. All using Ektacolor RT with Fuji CA II and Kodak Supra papers
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  7. #7

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    The color cast is everywhere on the image. The white areas do not appear affected. I'm using a durst CLS head, with no safelight. I haven't tried printing any fuji films, just portra since that's the bulk of what I've shot the past 3 years or so... I can't find any light leaks anywhere.. Hmm.

    I'm getting an overall very cold tone, and no matter what filtration I use the print's either too blue or too cyan. The print I was working on yesterday was taken in very warm summer light. I will try to get a scan to show tonight.

  8. #8
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Why are you dialing in some cyan? I never use cyan, just yellow and magenta.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  9. #9
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    I haven't used this stuff yet. What temp are you using? Maybe try heating it to 86F if you are using it room temperature. I really hope this new paper can work in the Kodak chemistry as I am almost out of Type C.

  10. #10

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    Do you have any other film negs? Try a neg from another film type and see if the cast remains. I doubt if the film is to blame but you need to eliminate possible causes. I may have misunderstood your cast categorisation but you have mentioned different casts. When you say an instant change from too green to too magenta are you saying you change the M filtration by say as little as 1-2 units and the change to the opposite cast the occurs?

    Filtration with Fuji paper is in my experience more critical thanwith Kodak paper but while I have seen a change with as little as 2 units ( Durst Dichroic head in my case) it is quite subtle and not an instant reverse


    pentaxuser

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