It works well with electronics that have gotten wet, too. If you dropped your phone in the water, pack it in uncooked rice to dry it out.
Originally Posted by Diapositivo
It depends on your fridge, I suppose. :-) I think the poster meant "desiccant".
I don't know what a "descant" is in this context (unless I have to find a contratenor and put him in the fridge, but it seems impractical
I wasn't aware that there was any special risk of fogging with a polyester base. Is it just an issue of light piping? I've used a small amount of 35mm on polyester bases, never treated it specially, and don't remember seeing any problems, but maybe I was just lucky.
San Diego, CA, USA
The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
-The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_
I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.
I have put previously opened canisters in the freezer with no ill effects. The amount of air in the canister is so small that it makes no difference.
"Panic not my child, the Great Yellow Father has your hand"--Larry Dressler
No, that's way too reasonable! Com'on... This is an internet forum! We are SUPPOSED TO obsess over every small detail on doing some simple tasks!
Seriously though, I do what I do (put a desiccant in a bag) with abundance of caution. It may be unnecessary but I have them and it doesn't hurt.
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
So glad photographers do not suffer from OCD!
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Desiccant, now I got it! I think I like rice better because it can be regenerated more easily (possibly in the saucepan).
Regarding how paranoid is my worry, well, I read somewhere many years ago, on some Italian photography magazine, that films were to be put in the fridge inside their own canister exactly for the reason that the factory-filled canister do not contain a dangerous level of humidity. And they wrote that canisters are air tight for this specific reason. And in fact, if one thinks about it, no film - however cheap - is sold without a canister (roll film is sold in sealed bags) which makes me think there is some logic in all this waste of plastic.
From what you tell me, it is nonetheless safe to put the film in the fridge inside an already opened, but then well-closed canister, because the air content inside the canister is not enough to make a veil of frost. I am glad to learn that. I do suppose that it would be somehow dangerous, for instance, to put the cartridges in the fridge without canister. I see that it's the amount of air circulating inside the fridge, any time one opens it, that creates the problem. If I insulate the film from the air in the fridge (by using the plastic canisters, or the metal canisters for bulk film) it should be all right.
My typing accent strikes, AGAIN!
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
Get some silica gel desiccants, they are cheap on Ebay, or you get them even if you didn't want to by buying something... They come in the "DO NOT EAT - THROW AWAY" packets. You can reuse them -- just place them in oven at 100 deg.C or more for some time, or some people use even a microwave oven but I haven't tried that. They usually have an indicator color, for example: blue<->transparent or orange<->green for dry<->wet. Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ST-CO...ht_3537wt_1166 Keep them in a zip-lock bag, put a few grains in the film canister every time and feel safe! When you run out or if the moisture gets in your desiccant bag, then heat them up to release the moisture and here you go again.
Even though you probably won't have a problem at 60% RH.
Where I live the RH is usually well above 55% usually around 80% during the summer. I have never had any problem with refrigerating film. I often buy in bulk and freeze the film. When I need a roll I put the canister in my pocket for about an hour. Again no problems. I have placed bulk loaders in zip-lock bags and refrigerated them. I wait 24 hours before opening the bags.
Rice is easily regenerated in a microwave. Be careful it will get very hot so you might try doing this in steps. Wait for the rice to cool before heating it some more.
Be careful with silica gel as the dust it produces is very hard and if any gets into the film cassette it could scratch the film.
Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 06-25-2011 at 12:46 AM. Click to view previous post history.
A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.
~Antoine de Saint-Exupery
"High humidity can promote mold growth and ferrotyping. Low humidity can create static marks when printing or cause buckling due to uneven moisture loss."
"Humidity lower than 50 % usually increases static problems and dirt attraction to processed film. At very low humidity, film curl may become a problem (e.g. Newton's Rings)."
-Kodak Storage and Handling of Unprocessed Film
I usually reload large amounts of film like a madman in multi hour sessions in the dark. Unrolling, cutting, and taping film to used cassettes from photolabs. The bulk reels (100ft, 400ft, 1000ft) are thawed to room temp and opened in relative humidity of a dry household bathroom, reloaded and repacked into the plastic canisters. Those canisters get bagged with a ziplock + silica gel packet and thrown back into the fridge. So far it has been perfectly fine. I would avoid bagging open (not plastic cased) cassettes with silica gel or rice, due to the fact that they might absorb too much moisture from the film when in storage for a period of time.
Off topic but: Sometimes when the humidity is a bit low, like in winter, its pretty awesome to rip off the tape on one of the bigger reels, as sparks shoot out in the pitch black room. Scared me the first time as I worried about the film, but realized it was safe in the metal tin. Its also a sign that says to unload the film in the bag a bit slower so sparks dont shoot off the reel from the static (like when your quickly pulling 36exp arm lengths).