no ICE :-( I have a primefilm 3600u which is the worst scanner ever in terms of speed and default color settings... but it had the highest res. for my price range. I'm sure ICE would make a difference... I didn't realize it was absolutely necessary when I was scanner shopping, just thought it was some fancy extra... LFMF
Wow... the what tool? Sounds like an actual darkroom lol. Wish I had a color one right about now...
Originally Posted by tkamiya
It looks good scratch wise but damn it, its just not the same...i want the smooth creamy silken texture the original film had...
nope... its just maybe like 5 rolls out of the 37, all with the same horizontal scratch pattern. The rolls are from different places, some from before Namibia. But yes the sand was brutal lol.The horizontal stripes are obviously from a machine, they are uniform throughout the whole roll.
Originally Posted by jordanstarr
But It's only this single roll that really has noticeable squiggle scratches on top of it. I did wonder if maybe I did the squiggles by mistake, but I pretty much took it straight from the lab and into the scanner... I don't recall mishandling the film... It's almost like they DID something with this particular roll before giving it to me. They were commenting on how great the shots were... and all I ordered were negs and index prints... maybe they were further inspecting it and dropped it on the floor or something?
Originally Posted by anikin
My scanner is pretty bottom of the line, and as you said it does highlight scratches excessively. Some of my b&w negs looked fine printed under an enlarger but when scanned with this thing they showed every detail of damage. Also the higher the res, the worse it looks.
Of course, they were never THIS bad... I'm thinking of attempting my own wet mount scans then editing for the web and then taking them to another lab to see how an 8x10 diffusion printed shot would come out... if I can find one that is...
wow, thanks! I'ma try a wet mount scan and try all that...
Originally Posted by Worker 11811
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ok so bout this whole wet mount thing
What is this nose oil you guys keep talking about... I googled it and ummmm... really?!
I would like to attempt the whole wet film thing on this cheap little scanner of mine and see if that helps... but I have no idea how to do a wet mounted scan, or a nose oil scan, lol. If not I can always send them out.
Doesn't a wet mount require glass? I'm not sure if it's possible on this scanner. you just slide the film across a little light square, snap down a plastic frame and scan each shot one at a time. There's no glass or tray, its just film straight over an empty hole with light behind it, and a little light thingy comes out and scans over the top.
Can I just wet my negs with something (and if so with what?) and then scan them?
Last edited by angrykitty; 06-24-2011 at 03:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.
BTW: This History Brush trick isn't mine. I learned it from reading "Photoshop for Photographers" by Martin Evening.
You can see a description of the History Brush tool on-line: http://www.adobepress.com/articles/article.asp?p=685045
The trick is to use the "blending mode."
If the blending mode is set to "Normal," the history brush paints from the buffered state of the image into the current state on a pixel-for-pixel basis. Whatever was in memory goes into your picture. However, changing to "Darken" or "Lighten" tells the computer to determine which pixels in the buffered state are darker or lighter than the existing pixels and paint ONLY those pixels.
If you set the blending mode to "Darken," the computer figures out which pixels in your picture are lighter than the remembered state and only paints pixels that will darken the current image. Thus, you can cover the white marks and ONLY the white marks with the history brush set to "Darken." Of course, you can switch to "Lighten" mode and this will allow you to cover up black spots.
When you do this trick, some of the "disturbed" pixels might be visible after you paint out out the marks. Use the "Healing Brush" tool to blend the pattern back into the image. Just work carefully and you can probably do a good enough job that nobody will be able to tell unless they squint. Work really carefully and maybe blow the image up to 500% or more and you might be able to make a truly invisible repair job.
If a dumbass like me can do it, anybody can!
Originally Posted by angrykitty
Well.... most places no longer print with all optical method these days anyway. I noticed the posted image was maybe scanned by a consumer flatbed scanner. Starting with better scan, you still may be able to do quite good.
I wish you luck.
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
... and I really meant "darkroom grain visualization and recording tool, easel, Dektol, Xtol...."
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?