Tetenal Indicet is B&W stop. You just want to drop the pH into acidic range to halt development, some tap water around here is even pH 9 with plenty of crap in it.
Just used some now on a higher pH split-bath experiment (pH ~11.6, ~40.5g/L sodium carbonate), more alkali than C-41. I didn't even measure it, just poured a bit into a beaker of 500ml of tap water, dumped it in, agitated, let it sit for 20s, then felt it with fingers as pouring out, feels hard/"dry" (acidic) as opposed to lubricated/oily/soapy (basic/caustic).
I don't use tetenal anymore (nothing wrong with the results it gave me), just replenished is so much more economic and easier (imo), I got my kit in 2008 or 2009, maybe they modified the manual.
I tetenal indicet is listed as 10-25% citric acid in the MSDS. Dry citric acid in the supermarket in the baking section is like $3 or so. Many options there.
Last edited by Athiril; 06-27-2011 at 05:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.
overdiluted color developer isn't a problem. follow is the sample semi-stand developing in my custom one-shot color dev with concentration of CD-agent in 10 times less than in stock. 5 year expired Agfa Vista 400@400 1hour at 23C, agitation 5 rotation per 20min
something like Dignan split C41? very interesting. I was made some experiment with modified split C41.
Originally Posted by Athiril
Like Dignan NCF-41, but changed around a bit, and using CD-2, developing Vision Print Film (where CD-2 is the correct developer), also threw in some ECN-2 film (CD-3 native). I should just mix up a CD-2/ECP-2 based developer altered to give low contrast (for pictorial results), but this is promising so far (as it's just for a single film).
Last time I tried semi-stand C-41 1+9 for an hour, it was good, but very grainy, but you've done more series of agitation.
I give up. You guys do what you wish, but 10 - 20 years from now, when your images are "dust", I will be too. So, there will be no complaints. CD2 makes FAR LESS STABLE IMAGES than CD3 if the film is not tailored for the process. Good luck guys. But remember that you cannot mix and match color developing agents.
The film I am using is made for CD-2, it is ECP-2 process.
Formula is on page 23 here -
I can get my hands on ECP-2 kit chemicals here.. but I am trying to use this film for pictorial photography, not film prints.
Trying to find a good split-bath formulation by experiment for it for the below reasons, and ArtCraft is not actually allowed to send CD agents outside the US, but did anyway last I ordered. Hence I can't get my hands on anymore CD-2 atm, so split-bath.
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yes, you right. film is more grainly, but sharpness increased. I think that 1+9 semistand need some agitation like 5 rotation per 10min
Originally Posted by Athiril
I found that same method (2batch color developer) described in patent US3869288 by Leopold Godowsky in 1973. so Dignan isn't inventor ))
Originally Posted by Athiril
I was try to make modified 2batch CD with high concentration CD in first batch and one shot solution of Potassium carbonate + KBr as 2nd batch. In my experiments I found that use Potassium carbonate instead of Sodium carbonate give some speed/activity increase. Also I found very interesting trick that activity depended from temperature of 2nd batch (I was try 23C and 44C). 3min recommended in NCF41 isn't correct time I think. I was use 6min with 2-3 rotation after each 2min. in any case 2batch color dev produce images with low contrast. high speed film (400 and more) sometime underdeveloped. some results:
Fuji Superia Reala 100@100 (5year expired)
Kodak MAX400@400 (6year expired)
Kodak BW400CN @400
Superia Reala 100@100 (expired 2003) medium format
PS don't worry about CD-agent type. all my developers based on CD-1 because other CD-* not available in my country. usually no major color correction after scan. so don't worry about CD type
PPS I also develop Kodak Vision2 500T, but it need more color correction because balanced for 5000K instead 3200K daylight
after adjust WB
Last edited by Relayer; 06-29-2011 at 07:32 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Ron, with the amount of silver and stabilizer you've absorbed over the years, I expect you to be totally archival
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
Ian, thanks. I don't think so though! But, regarding the use of incorrect developing agents please just consider it a reminder to use the right color developing agent for the material at hand. I sometimes slip trying to remember all of the mix and match combinations that Kodak uses and that you guys use.
I just let my film sit in Bath B until completion and use a stop afterit, with a few seconds of agitation, and gentle inversion every 2 minutes just to make sure it comes out even. I let it go to completion
Once I tried 0.34g/L KOH for Bath B with some KBr and development was weird and uneven, I could see shapes of stuff, but no definition within subjects and bad colour. You need plenty of alkali (by mass) available, pH level isn't enough on it's own.
The wrong developing agent gives a narrower density range within the image portion I've found as well.
If you've got your hands on C-41, then use the part C or which part your kit has the CD-4 agent in it to make your Bath A.
The films I use don't have iodide specified in their disclosed formulas, but you should try adding a small amount of potassium iodide to Bath B as well. That's also be in the C-41 kit, should be mixed in the alkali part iirc.. so you could make your Bath B from your C-41 part A.
KOH/NaOH as alkali in color developer is a wrong way