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  1. #171

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    Just want to add my source:

    Good Source to Order C-41 Chemicals (SGA Imaging)

    I have a stack of old CPAC Trebla C-41 chemicals. The part C is too old to use. So what I really need is the C-41 developer kit. I've done a lot of research on the chemicals. Now I've finally found the right one.

    For individual use, Trebla offers the C-41 HRR Developer Replenisher kit. Cat: 55DE145, 3 x 5 liters. Most of the places sells for $24 and SGA Imaging sells for $14.49. Shipping cost varies. You'll need the starter, which is $2.50 a bottle. So this is about $20 for a 3 x 5 liter kit. The replenish rate is 50ml/sf. Someone can calculate as to the capacity of each liter (how many rolls of films).

    This is much cheaper than the Kodak Flexicolor SM kit. This is also better than the Flexicolor 20 liter kit (one large kit). I believe this is the newer kit from the old 55DE571. From the technical data, the new kit is the same as the old kit. I believe the HRR has something to do with the replenishing....

    Here are some more details:

    Tech data: http://www.pdisupply.com/documents/m...02012%20HZ.pdf

    Old kit:


    The replenish rate is 21ml/135x24. Or 30ml for 135x36 film. The full capacity of the entire kit is about 700 rolls.
    Last edited by RedSun; 05-01-2014 at 11:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #172
    alienmeatsack's Avatar
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    I've been considering investing in some of the larger quantity C-41 chemicals for home use with my standard tank system. I read through this thread and it was very confusing, so many things, so much terminology...

    Is there an updated list of exactly what I would need to order (in the US) to do C-41 with the Fujihunt or Kodak C-41 chemicals, preferable something that makes sense to me and doesn't require 40 steps to get to the developing part. I've been using the cheap $20 press kits, and sometimes get the Rollei kits, so easy to use but they don't last very long. Especially when I do cross processing and things like that where they can get contaminated.

    Is there a simple list of chems like at the start of this thread that are currently relevant and recommended for home development use and that aren't hundreds of dollars? Id like something I can mix up a liter of and use for 4-8 rolls, then toss if it's gotten bad, or put aside for experimental development, that sort of thing.

    I was going to order one of the larger liquid Rollei kits from MacoDirect.de that I was told is (FujiHunt) dev plus a separate bleach and fix and a stab and could be replaced individually as things go bad but that is still a smaller kit so to speak. I don't know if my rambling makes sense, but I am just looking for something I can afford-ably do c41, xpro e6 and ecn2 in and toss when its bad or replace easily.

    I am only developing film, not paper. So it would need to be a film developer. And preferable not require 4 different chemicals to make one step of the 4. If that makes sense?

  3. #173
    bvy
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    Kodak C-41 Processing Chemicals

    I've posted this before, but it's worth posting again. As of this evening, all items below are in stock from Unique Photo (US) with current prices shown.

    C-41 Developer Replenisher ($13.95)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c...-0608-8231672/

    C-41 Developer Starter ($12.51)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...-1-2l-6601074/

    Separate Bleach and Fix ($30.00)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...-film-1173319/

    Final Rinse ($2.95)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...rinse-1925254/

    The developer replenisher is in three parts (sorry) and will make 5 liters. Mix as directed. To make ~6.5 liters of working strength developer, you'll mix the 5 liters of developer replenisher with about 200ml of starter and the remainder water (as directed on the starter bottle).

    For the F2 bleach/fix unit, you're just going to have to trust me, as it's not very well documented for home use. What you'll get here is about a liter each of (green) bleach and fixer in bladder bags. Use the bleach straight and dilute the fixer 1+1 with water. Also note there's a good chance that what you'll get will be expired. I don't think it matters as long as everything's still packaged and sealed properly. The bleach should appear almost black, the fixer clear.

    The final rinse is straightforward enough. Dilute as instructed.

    Reorder developer replenisher as needed. The starter, bleach/fix kit, and final rinse should last you for several cycles.

  4. #174
    alienmeatsack's Avatar
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    Thank you for this list! (And to everyone who's contributed their thoughts in this thread)

    Can these be mixed in small quantities to get say 1000ml of working solution for each like my current chems? Or do I need to mix them up fully and use them as needed. I typically use around 600-700ml in my tank at a time which is why I like the 1000ml. That extra 300-400ml in the bottle mixes with what I used when I pour it back in and "freshens up" the chemicals a bit, giving me lots of uses.

    What exactly is "Developer Starter"? Is that just fancy speak for "mix these and use it as developer"? Replenisher is what you add in every so often to make it work like new, right?

    How many rolls will these chemicals do, approximately, per 1000ml bottle when mixed? Ex: the kit I use now says 12-18 rolls, I usually get 15-20 before it gets wierd.

    Sorry for all the questions. I've looked a lot of this up but most of the explanations out there are not exactly avg joe speak.

    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    I've posted this before, but it's worth posting again. As of this evening, all items below are in stock from Unique Photo (US) with current prices shown.

    C-41 Developer Replenisher ($13.95)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c...-0608-8231672/

    C-41 Developer Starter ($12.51)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...-1-2l-6601074/

    Separate Bleach and Fix ($30.00)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...-film-1173319/

    Final Rinse ($2.95)
    http://www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...rinse-1925254/

    The developer replenisher is in three parts (sorry) and will make 5 liters. Mix as directed. To make ~6.5 liters of working strength developer, you'll mix the 5 liters of developer replenisher with about 200ml of starter and the remainder water (as directed on the starter bottle).

    For the F2 bleach/fix unit, you're just going to have to trust me, as it's not very well documented for home use. What you'll get here is about a liter each of (green) bleach and fixer in bladder bags. Use the bleach straight and dilute the fixer 1+1 with water. Also note there's a good chance that what you'll get will be expired. I don't think it matters as long as everything's still packaged and sealed properly. The bleach should appear almost black, the fixer clear.

    The final rinse is straightforward enough. Dilute as instructed.

    Reorder developer replenisher as needed. The starter, bleach/fix kit, and final rinse should last you for several cycles.

  5. #175
    alienmeatsack's Avatar
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    I just ordered all of those items. And I copied your notes to my note app for when they arrive. If I can mix in smaller quantities, I'll do 1000ml at a time. If not, I'll do them up as intended. I just need to get some larger jugs for mixing/storing.

    And look up the instructions online for them.

    I am spending $20 for a cheap "Press kit" now that gives me 15-20 rolls at best. So if I get 40 or more rolls out of the above linked chemicals, based on the cost, I've pretty much got the same amount out of them that I'd get out of the cheap kit. I am hoping for way more then that.

    So if I understand correctly, the developer starter is basically my developer I use until it gets weak. Then I add in replenisher per instructions. That should keep it alive for (?) amount of time.

    Is there also a bleach replenisher I should get, or do I just use up the B/F and then just buy that same seperate b/f kit again and use until its toast?

    I love learning new stuff. This is exciting. New chemicals, big boy chemicals. I'm like a lab, wee!

  6. #176
    RPC
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    Developer starter is not used as developer. It is added to replenisher, along with water, to make a normal developer solution, which can then be replenished with replenisher.

  7. #177
    bvy
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    For the sake of simplicity and consistency, I would mix everything at once. I can't speak to how well the chemical components keep, but, based on my own experience, working strength developer stored to capacity in airtight bottles keeps for several months -- some report up to a year or more. For what it's worth, I use Sobe drink bottles. They're hard plastic, have a wide mouth, and store just over 600ml, which is exactly what I need to develop two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120 in my Paterson tank. Developer is cheap, and I typically don't reuse it, except maybe once for cross-processing or non-critical stuff. But I suppose you can push it for the sake of economy, just like with the kits from Rollei and the others.

    So if you're agreeable to that, first prepare 5 liters of developer replenisher as directed on the developer replinsher package. Next, follow the proportions on the bottle of developer starter to make approximately 6.5 liters of working strength developer. I mention proportions, because the bottle gives directions for making just 1 liter of working strength developer: 207ml of water + 30ml of starter + 763ml of replenisher = 1 L of working strength developer. If you plan on using all 5 liters of developer replenisher (as I do) then just multiply everything by 6.5. Note that you'll have starter left over.

    Try not get too hung up on the starter/replenisher terminology. It can be very confusing.

  8. #178
    bvy
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    As far as the bleach/fix, start with maybe 600ml working solution of each. This will last you for a while, and you'll have some concentrates of each left over that you can use to replenish. Then, yes, just buy a new kit. But bleach can last for a long time. I use a stop bath and rinse before bleaching, and aerate it (shake it up) before each session.

  9. #179
    alienmeatsack's Avatar
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    Lots of good information here, thanks again!

    RPC - Seems odd to do that, have a starter and then replenisher. Why not just have "Developer" and be done with it? I'm learning as I go here, and I'm sure in a lab situation maybe this kind of methodology makes more sense. Either way, I will learn and soon master the use of these new chemicals and be a developing fool.

    bvy - I think once I have it all in hand and can look at the bottles, read info, look up details online and refer to the notes here that it will all make more sense.

    I'm hoping to take full advantage of the replenishing part as time passes and rolls get developed. Same goes for the bleach etc. I figure I've spent quite a bit on cheap kits now and it's time to get a little more pro in my consumer fantasy world that I call my film life.

    Worst case, I ruin some rolls of film and have wasted $50 for the chems. Best case, I can do C41 with much better quality and replace/replenish as needed to make it last. And I've ruined film many times before when experimenting, and spent way more on things that give me nothing. So it's win win either way.

  10. #180
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    On the "starter" question, generally speaking it works as follows:

    When you mix up a batch of developer, it responds a certain way. As you use it, the byproducts of development change how it responds. The best results happen when you develop regularly, and add replenisher regularly. The developer "seasons", meaning it reaches an equilibrium that gives you high quality, repeatable results.

    Starter performs the role of "seasoning" your developer right from the start. Your first roll will be quite similar to the 20th roll obtained from a well maintained/replenished line.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2



 

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