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  1. #21
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    There should be a good WASH after the bleach and after the fix. In addition to carryover which can affect the color and capacity of the solutions, the blix is oxidized to some extent in the fix and causes many problems. If you do it wrong, the fix becomes colored like the bleach, and the stabilizer even takes on that color if you severely underdo the washes.

    PE

  2. #22
    jbl
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    What's your preferred way of washing?

    Also, I just read the Kodak Z-131 documents on processing and they describe an agitation technique I'm not familiar with:

    Immerse the rack fully into the developer. Rapidly tap it on the bottom of the tank to dislodge any air bubbles. Raise the rack until the bottom is out of the developer; then reimmerse it. Do this once. This requires 4 to 5 seconds.

    After the initial agitation, let the rack sit for 10 seconds. Then lift it straight up until the bottom is just out of the developer solution. Reimmerse it without draining. Do this with an even, uniform motion, taking 2 to 3 seconds to complete it. Repeat this procedure once every 10 seconds (6 times per minute).

    Ten seconds before the end of the development time, raise the rack, tilt it about 30 degrees toward one corner, and drain it for 10 seconds. Then move the rack into the bleach.
    Am I reading this right? It seems to be saying that you lift the tank up out of the water bath and put it back down. There's not an inversion step. There's also a part about nitrogen-based solutions, but that's outside of my capabilities at home :-).

    Thanks again,

    -jbl

  3. #23
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    That agitation technique is for very large racks of film, not a couple rolls in small tanks.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

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  4. #24
    jbl
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    still too magenta

    I tried another roll today and was much more careful about the temperature. I also extend the bleach and fix times to 6.5 minutes and did a full wash under running water for 3:15 before and after the fix.

    The results appear to be much the same. I'm attaching a photo below if that helps at all. Is it possible I mixed the chemicals improperly or something? I don't know how vigorous you need to mix the different parts of the color developer in the Rollei kit. I wasn't crazy about it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails photo.jpg  

  5. #25
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    They look a bit underexposed but that's about it. Have you tried printing or scanning them?

  6. #26
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    They look fine, just a little underexposed.
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  7. #27
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    Of course it is difficult to say for sure, but I happen to have a recent roll of Ektar here, and by comparison of the edge markings, yours looks underdeveloped to me rather than underexposed.

    PE

  8. #28
    jbl
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    Thanks, PE, I've been wondering that too.

    I did the scans and I'm definitely doing something wrong. My process this time was to do development for 3:15, dumping the developer at 3:05 as I had read to try.

    I'm attaching three images here. The first is the normal exposure metered off the tree using an incident meter. The second is a bracketed exposure, plus 2 stops from the original metering. The third is that second exposure, with 4 stops added to the raw file from the scan. The thing I noticed about that one is that the colors are beginning to look more normal, there's still the blue cast, but there are other colors.

    In terms of other settings, I used my normal scanning workflow, so I don't think that's an issue.

    I'd appreciate any suggestions of what to try next :-).

    Jonathan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails base.jpg   plus-2.jpg   plus-2-plus-4.jpg  

  9. #29
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    What do you mean "metered off the tree using an incident meter"? If you are using the white dome for incident metering you shouldn't be metering from the tree, but rather pointing the dome towards the camera lens. Did I misunderstand what you are doing?
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  10. #30
    jbl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Davis View Post
    What do you mean "metered off the tree using an incident meter"? If you are using the white dome for incident metering you shouldn't be metering from the tree, but rather pointing the dome towards the camera lens. Did I misunderstand what you are doing?
    Sorry, I was unclear. I meant that I held the incident meter on the tree, facing where the camera was going to be: I took the incident reading from where the sun hit the tree.

    -jbl

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