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  1. #1

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    Developing C41 colour film- help!

    Hi there- I recently purchased all the necessary developing equipment to develop C41 35 mm colour film- I have never developed 35mm colour film before and have become very confused by a number of contradictory sources!

    I have (Fotospeed) FD10 Developer + SB50 stop bath + FX20 Fixer- as far as I am aware this is for developing black and white film only, am I not correct?


    I have Rollei Digibase C41 colour bleacher + fixer and Rollei part A+B+C c41 developer! A stupid question but this is the chemicals I need to use to develop colour film yes?

    I am confused by the 3 part developer- as I have developed black and white before and the process was far simpler!

    If anybody could help that would be fantastic! thanks!

  2. #2

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    Yep the rollei c41 kit is the one to use colorfilm. I only used the tetenal kit. The process is really simple. Only make sure the temp is correct while using the color developer. Other then that go with that banana! (Dutch saying literally translated to english)
    Reality is whatever stays when you stop believing in it.
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  3. #3
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    The three part developer is only one step, you will need to follow the mixing directions to mix the three parts into developer. So you will have three steps to the C41, which really isn't much more complicated than black and white. First Dev, then Bleach, and then Fix. And follow the time and temperature directions to the letter. In that regard it's simpler than black and white.

  4. #4
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    The steps are: Develop, Bleach, wash, Fix, wash, Stabilizer or Final Rinse.

    This cycle must be used according to the manufacturers instructions for time and temperature (use 100 F if you use the Kodak and Fuji recommendations).

    A prewet is sometimes recommended to achieve a good starting temperature. I always use one.

    PE
    Last edited by Photo Engineer; 08-11-2011 at 03:20 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Left out prewet information.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbonbon View Post

    I have Rollei Digibase C41 colour bleacher + fixer and Rollei part A+B+C c41 developer! A stupid question but this is the chemicals I need to use to develop colour film yes?

    I am confused by the 3 part developer- as I have developed black and white before and the process was far simpler!
    Yes, in case you missed it, the Rollei part A+B+C color developer must be premixed according to the instructions before you use it.

    It is intended to be reused. I don't know the recommendations on the sheet but many people report getting 20 rolls developed from 1 liter of Rollei developer (YMMV)

    So, after mixing everything according to the instructions you should have 4 bottles. Color Developer, Bleach, Fix, Stabilizer. Return each to their container after use.

    The only functional difference between black and white and this C41 kit is the extra bleaching step. (temperature is also important)
    - Bill Lynch

  6. #6
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    If you buy the JOBO/Tetenal press kit with a combined bleach-fix (blix) step then it is develop, blix, wash, stabilize. Simple as B&W. I get 25 rolls/1L package. I keep hearing that blix is awful but RA-4 uses a blix and it seems to work for me in both C-41 and RA-4 so I can say that blix works for me.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  7. #7
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    jjbonbon - Welcome to APUG!!! Glad to see you doing it yourself! I have learned that following the Digibase instructions to be very wonderful.
    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/pr...tionManual.pdf

    To answer you question, yes, mix all the parts of the devloper up to make a working solution (Water, part A, part B, part c and starter). You do similar with the bleach, fix and stabilizer, just follow the above. You make enough working solution to cover your film. If your tank needs 500 ml, then make a min of 500ml of working solution, not 250. Ultimatly your tank will dictate what you mix up. If you bought too small amount of chemistry, you might need to buy more to make enough working solution, so check your tank, and then what you bought to ensure you have what you need to cover the film accuratly.

    However, as Photo Engineer mentions, a wash after the Bleach and after the Fix is recommended (see his reply above).

    Read every page of the below thread and you will know what I am taking about. Greg (a C-41 pro) concludes, like Photo Engineer, that a wash after the Bleach and Fix is the best course of action to preserve your chemistry/negatives.

    Welcome to Apug and I wish you continued stellar photographs!

    I believe the below is required Rollei Digibase reading....
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/7...se-c-41-a.html
    Last edited by zsas; 08-11-2011 at 08:44 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Meant wash not rinse

  8. #8
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Wash, not rinse. A good wash is needed not a "superficial" rinse.

    HPULLEY;

    I have never recommended a blix for film! A blix is a far cry from a bleach then fix! Consider that color film has about 300 - 500 mg / square foot of silver, but a color paper has 50 - 100 mg! All of the Silver metal must be changed into Silver salts during bleaching or blixing. This is generally not possible with films leaving one with a bleach bypass effect that cannot be seed easily by eye. So, please take care. You may be degrading your results.

    PE

  9. #9
    zsas's Avatar
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    Opps sorry Photo Engineer to misquote you, I fixed my reply above to say WASH, thanks for the correction

  10. #10
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    NP. This was just a matter of "tuning" nomenclature.

    Thanks.

    PE

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