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  1. #11

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    So I mixed up the chems yesterday and managed to develop five rolls of color negs (I did it manually in some Patterson tanks as the Jobo is not ready yet). They look fine, but I have not had a chance to scan them yet. I did a 120 roll of Fuji Pro 160S, a 120 roll of Fuji Pro 160C and three 35mm rolls of Superia 400. I have one problem though, the 35mm negs came out with some gunk marks after drying, they look like marks left by the water. I followed the kit's instructions and finished off the developing process with the stabilizer before putting the negs up to dry in a film dryer. The weird part is that only the 35mm film seemed to be affected.

    What would be the best way to clean the negs now? Also, what can I do to avoid this in the future? I've read of people using photoflo, but I didn't want to mess around and just followed the instructions given in the kit.

  2. #12
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    Wash, Stabilize, wipe gently with a sponge wetted with stabilizer. Dry.

    PE

  3. #13

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    How about my negs that are gunked up with the watermarks?

  4. #14

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    I think that if you repeat the steps in post #12 you’ll remove the drying marks and leave the film freshly stabilized as necessary.

  5. #15

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    Okay, I'll give it a shot. This is going to suck though as I've cut the negs already.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Pain-MD View Post
    Okay, I'll give it a shot. This is going to suck though as I've cut the negs already.
    Stabilize or restablize in a plastic tank or plastic ware. Stabilizers and PhotoFlo are not good for Jobo tanks per the manufacturer.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  7. #17
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    I have never had a problem with Stabilizer used in Jobo tanks and I have used the combination for decades.

    Wash with HOT water after use. That is the rule.

    PE

  8. #18

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    Okay, update time. I developed four more rolls of film yesterday, two 120 rolls and 2 35mm rolls. Again, the 120 film was fine, but the 35mm had watermarks. After doing some research, I read that a lot of other people have the same problem with the stabilizer in the Unicolor kit. I followed one recommendation and after lettig the film dry, I resplooled it and photoflo'd it as per my usual b&w routine. After drying it turned out perfect, no watermarks to be found. As for my already cut negs, I tried giving them a photoflo bath in a small print tray with poor results. The watermarks were gone, but the film dried with other marks on it. I'm going to try 99% alcohol to clean the film which I've rad does the job well. Anyone have any other recommendations?

  9. #19
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    By resoaking them in Photo Flo, you removed the stabilization capability imparted to the film by the original stabilizer. To do a proper job on modern color negative films you must use a Stabilizer or Final Rinse with the proper chemistry before storage.

    PE

  10. #20

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    I've been developing C-41 in my Jobo ATL for about 4 months now. I do use kodak porcess control strips. The first couple of times I used one control strip at the beginning, one after 4 rolls of 120, and one after 8 rolls to see what's up. Now I only use 1 at the beginning, by itself, to make sure my chemicals are fine. I use the JOBO C-41 Press kit from B&H. So far, my control strips have revealed that:

    1) it takes longer than I expected to get ALL the chems to process temperature, so I preheat the chems for 8 minutes rather than 5
    2) for the first 8 rolls of 120, the control strip is spot on (everyhting is within the tolerances as published by Kodak for their small tank C-41 chemicals)
    3) after 8 rolls some of the density readings begin to drift into the action limits. I now only develop a max of 8 120 rolls or 32 4x5 with 1 litre.

    Regarding water marks, I add half the required amount per litre of photoflo to the stabalizer bath (out of the Jobo) and I get perfectly clean negs. BTW I used regular filtered tap water.

    My negative, particularly the 4x5, are much cleaner and at least as well developed as the pro-lab's dip and dunk processor. And at less than $1 per sheet, rather than $3.50 + tax, it a steal!

    Have fun!

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