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I am also interested in trying ilfochrome on a Jobo, and I am wondering how the P3 chemistry is used in a Jobo. Will the P3 chemistry harm the jobo?
If I plan to use one shot chemistry, I assume I would only purchase the P3 developer, bleach, and fixer for the Jobo and not the developer replenisher, bleach replenisher, or fixer replenisher. Is this correct?
Does anyone have suggestions on how the chemistry should be stored? Should it be refrigerated? How long will it last? Any special containers?
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You order P3 STARTER sets of dev, ble, and fx. Mix it one-shot on the same day of use, of even for each print if your prints are large. The chemistry stores quite well if left in concentrate and unmixed.
It will not harm the plastic components of your Jobo drums, but the bleach can definitely corrode metal
drains. You need to neturalize the bleach with baking soda before pouring it down a drain. This is best
done by dumping the bleach immediately into a plastic bucket containing the baking soda, so that the
sulfuric acid fumes are neutralized too. Good ventilation is also very important when mixing or processing
the bleach. The developer and fixer are fairly innocuous.
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Thanks Drew,
Does the recommendation about baking soda also pertain to the bleach in the Kit30.2?
Any idea about P3 shelf life and any special storage procedures you follow with P3?
Since I will be a low volume user of maybe around 10-15 of 8x10 prints or 16x20 prints per month I was thinking of using the kit 30.2. Any recommendations?
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The problem with the P30 kits is that you have to mix up the whole batch, so if it isn't used up soon
enough you'll get poor results from the oxidized partial solutions. The chem is more expensive that way
too, but if you plan correctly, and use up all your paper and chem around the same time, it might be
cost effective. The P30 bleach is still highly acidic (sulfamic acid), so you still need the baking soda.
One reason I prefer to mix up solutions per print or work session is that I'm pretty paranoid about overexposure and sensitization to the chemicals. If I need to skip a day or week to avoid sensitization,
I can easily do so with the P3 approach. Another trick is that I load the processing drum in the darkroom, but my actual processor is on a cart which I wheel outdoors. That a way I get very little
exposure to the fumes. This only works in mild weather, obviously, so I do my color printing late Spring
thru Fall, and not in Winter, which is my black-and-white season.
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 Originally Posted by DREW WILEY
Ciba paper keeps very poorly once it is thawed out. Six months at the most before serious crossover
develops in the highlights. If you buy it in quantity, keep the unopened packages of paper frozen.
Can you not just seal it back and re-freeze it? When you order it, it IS going to thaw in shipment.
I don't remember what I did when I used to print with it in the 90s, probably used it up in time. I think I put it back in the refrigerator (not freezer though) between use.
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Like any other gelatin emulsion, if you put Ciba paper back into cold storage you have to ensure that the
pkg is well sealed and won't get condensation inside. Once thawed there were will a slow but inevitable
color balance shift, often from greenish to magenta, which means you might have to periodically recalibrate your "standard" filter settings. I have always used this characteristic creatively, i.e, printing
those images in sequence which best utilized the particular bias of the age of the paper. After a certain
point, you get crossover in the highlights. This can be either beautiful or annoying, depending.
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The p30 home kit is in liquid form and you can mix as little chemistry as you need. No need to mix the whole kit at one time.
Regards
Erik
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They must have changed the kit since I once used it. You used to have to mix the sulfamic acid powder
form. I have only used P-3 for quite awhile now. Results were identical.
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Originally Posted by DREW WILEY
Like any other gelatin emulsion, if you put Ciba paper back into cold storage you have to ensure that the
pkg is well sealed and won't get condensation inside. Once thawed there were will a slow but inevitable
color balance shift, often from greenish to magenta, which means you might have to periodically recalibrate your "standard" filter settings. I have always used this characteristic creatively, i.e, printing
those images in sequence which best utilized the particular bias of the age of the paper. After a certain
point, you get crossover in the highlights. This can be either beautiful or annoying, depending.
Humm. I've been re-freezing film and black and white paper for years without a problem. All I ever did was squeeze the air out of the pack and tape shut. For 35mm I just put it in a film can. I do ensure it warms to room temperature before I open the package (or film can) though. Never had a problem with this that I could see.
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Ilfochrome has an especially soft emulsion and frills easier than other color papers. One thing I do to prevent this is, during the final rinse, slowly change the warmer wash water to cool water for awhile
before using the squeegee. I suspect the problem increases as the paper gets older. I live in a damp
coastal climate where the humidity is seldom low. I bought a fancy vacuum seal device which evacuates the air and heat seals the wrapping bag at the same time. But I still haven't used it! What
also works to seal things back up is a tacking iron on poly bags. Generally I'm just too lazy, and simply
use two or three layered bags and freezer tape. But I'm careful not to do this if the lab conditions are
cold and damp. So far this has been fine too.
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