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Slide film came back greenish with faint images
I think this must have been a development problem, but I'd like to hear from people who know the vagaries of the E-6 process before I decide for sure.
I've just gotten back a handful of E-6 rolls from Swan. All but one are fine; that one, they returned as "blank". However, when I take a good look at it, I can tell that there are images there; they're just very, very thin. Additionally, the whole roll has a light greenish tint, sort of a light teal. The edge markings are visible; they're orange against the background of that light green, so they show up fairly clearly, but I think they're also fainter than they should be.
The camera has behaved well both before and after this roll, and anyway, while a camera could underexpose, I don't think it could turn the film green!
Any idea what could cause this?
Thanks
-NT
Nathan Tenny
San Diego, CA, USA
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, they are about the same distance apart.
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Did they process E-6 or C-41?
Dave
"She's always out making pictures, She's always out making scenes.
She's always out the window, When it comes to making Dreams.
It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up."
From It's All Mixed Up by The Cars
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Well, the faint images are positives, so I assume it went through a reversal process at some point in its life.
C-41 processed in E-6 comes out green, doesn't it? And interestingly, now that I look closely at the edge markings, I think they're not right for Provia---"FUJI RH", frame numbers, and "RH-223", whereas all the Provia markings I can find say "FUJI RDP III". Cripes, maybe I switched in a C-41 roll without knowing it?
-NT
Nathan Tenny
San Diego, CA, USA
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, they are about the same distance apart.
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Fuji shows RH as being Sensia 400; 223 appears to be the emulsion number.
I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.
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According to the data sheet, RH is Sensia 400.
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/con..._datasheet.pdf
edit: I'd have been quicker if I hadn't gone looking for a link.
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By blank do they mean the film is clear (with thin images) or is the film black/dark with barely visible images?
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It looks like the Sensia edge markings, all right. And the thin images would be explained by overexposure (I shot it at 100). But now I'm back to the original question: What would cause an E-6 film to come out with positive images, but tinted green?
Also, there's the little point that I've never owned a roll of Sensia in my life---certainly not a 24-exposure roll of Sensia. Freestyle (where I get my slide film) doesn't seem to offer any slide film in 24 exposures. The images on the film are mine, so it's not like my roll got switched with someone else's. What *happened* here???
-NT
Nathan Tenny
San Diego, CA, USA
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, they are about the same distance apart.
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 Originally Posted by Athiril
By blank do they mean the film is clear (with thin images) or is the film black/dark with barely visible images?
It's clear---well, translucent-light-teal, because the whole roll has this green cast. But it looks like a very thin version of a normal slide roll that's been uniformly tinted greenish.
-NT
Nathan Tenny
San Diego, CA, USA
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, they are about the same distance apart.
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 Originally Posted by ntenny
It's clear---well, translucent-light-teal, because the whole roll has this green cast. But it looks like a very thin version of a normal slide roll that's been uniformly tinted greenish.
-NT
Overexposure, overdevelopment (long time, too high temp, over-replenished), or low-activity or underdevelopment in colour developer I would say.
So the black areas (well normally black) where no actual exposure is, is thin too? Hard to imagine a first developer problem for that.. perhaps heavy over-replenishment (too concentrated, more solvent)? Hm.
I'd probably go with a problem in the colour developer step.
Though if they were processed together with other rolls that were fine...
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Here are some causes from the Kodak manual
Green:
"Reversal bath exhausted, diluted, or underreplenished
Film fogged by green safelight
Wash used between color developer and reversal bath
Color developer dilute
Color pH high
Too much Part A in color developer
Overreplenished color developer
A dilute color developer
Color developer mixed using first developer starter"
Too light:
"Too much time or high temperature in first developer
Film fogged by light before processing
First or color developer (or both) too concentrated
First or color developer (or both) overreplenished
First developer starter omitted
First developer contaminated with reversal bath or color developer
First developer contaminated with fixer"
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