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  1. #1

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    Magenta cast in C41?

    Does anybody know what can cause an magenta cast in C41 development?

  2. #2
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    Magenta cast in the print? The negative? The mask?

    What process are you using?

    What temps & times?

    How are you washing?
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #3

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    I scan the negatives.
    The images have the cast. I use different processes Fuji Hunt and tried some home brew too and develop in an small tank.

    80% of my Images have more or less an magenta cast.

    I tried different temperatures, different agitation. I solved all other problems
    but all my images still are reddish/magenta.

    How can I get image that tends toward yellow?

    Is the magenta cast because a low density in the cyan dye laver?
    An overdevelopment of the first dye layer?

    Maybe the ph is to high?
    Last edited by Color Photographer; 09-10-2011 at 11:18 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4

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    How did you verify that it's the film and not your scanning technique?

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    Some negatives developed at different photo labs scans ok.
    I only have an BW Enlarger and cannot try prints myself. So I only scan.
    My explanation is that the first two dye layers on the negative are overdeveloped,
    and the third, the cyan dye layer has an low density and is underdeveloped but I dont know if I am right.

    I tried to rise the ph up to 11,5. It seems to be the wrong way.

    Maybe I dont understand and my thoughts are completely wrong?
    Last edited by Color Photographer; 09-10-2011 at 11:34 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #6
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Two thoughts here.

    First, given you have one lab that works and one doesn't, talk to your labs, it may simply be that one cares and one doesn't. They should also be able to tell you if your negatives are over exposed or under exposed.

    Second, with regard to scanning questions and all that digital color balancing jazz, APUG isn't really the best source, in fact it's off topic. http://www.photoshopuser.com may be a better place to ask. Lynda.com has tutorials on scanning too.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #7

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    Thanks, but the negatives from all labs I tried yet are ok on scanning.

    The negatives that I developed myself have the problem!

    So I dont think its the scanning. It seems to be my development.
    Last edited by Color Photographer; 09-10-2011 at 11:52 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #8
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    So back to my original questions.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  9. #9
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    If the scan is too magenta, the film is too green. This can come from a variety of effects including fog, improper development and a host of other things. Since I have no idea what your workflow is, I cannot judge but if it is truly magenta then the problem is in the yellow and cyan layers or in the magenta layer.

    Is the entire film greenish? Or, is just the image area greenish? Or, is there no cast to the negative in any way, but it scans magenta? This might help evaluate the problem.

    PE

  10. #10

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    Thanks PE

    Your comments and your knowledge are so valuable!

    As you remember I just try some experiments on developing.

    1. Yes the negatives are greenish in the image area and the perforation area at the edge is greenish too. On negatives that brings better result the perforation area looks more orange.

    2. I try to keep an development at 25 C with one agitation every 30sec at 21min.

    3. Can the PH be the problem, it is at 11,5 should I lower it?

    4. I tried Fuji Hunt Chemistry and some own variations. The only effects seems to be on the saturation, sharpness and developing time, but all have more ore less the magenta cast on the scans. (I cut an film into small pieces to be able to compare the results)

    5. Adding some Sodium Carbonate to the developer seems to help a little. Can this be?

    6. Maybe the Starter (Bromide) is to much or too low?

    7. It would be great if I not only can get normal negatives but the opposite slight yellowish images.
    is this possible?

    (All my films are from the same batch that brings normal results developed at pro labs. Also I tried some other brands, the same)
    Last edited by Color Photographer; 09-10-2011 at 12:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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