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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I use a Jobo, a small tank and even hard rubber tanks for C-41. I use the same time for all of them! AFAIK, my Jobo does not suggest anything but 3' 15" for the first developer. I have the Jobo auto timer, and it is set at that time in the firmware. So..... Time = Time = Time. For C41 it is 3' 15" at 100F.

    PE

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I use a Jobo, a small tank and even hard rubber tanks for C-41. I use the same time for all of them! AFAIK, my Jobo does not suggest anything but 3' 15" for the first developer. I have the Jobo auto timer, and it is set at that time in the firmware. So..... Time = Time = Time. For C41 it is 3' 15" at 100F.

    PE
    PE, thank you so much again!

    My Jobo kit states 3:15 for Jobo rotary processor, and 3:30 for dip & dunk or small tank as well as rotary tube @ 104*F. Perhaps they subtract :15 in the Jobo processor to account for drain and fill?

    Again I'll take your word, if you say 3:15 for everything I'll go along with it.

  3. #13
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    Thanks for your kind comments and those of everyone. I try to help.

    My Jobo does not have any significant distinction in the instructions AFAIK. I use a standrd 8" fill and drain in my timing. IDK if it is right, but it works. As for dip and dunk... Well there is some fudge factor which involves agitation. If you do it wrong, time goes up or down. At EK in Research , we used Dip and Dunk or Nitrogen Burst. Both gave substantially identical results. At home, I used the Jobo and it was comparable to the results from work.

    PE

  4. #14
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    I will second PE in saying that 3:15 in a Jobo gives good results with Kodak developer. I use Kodak Developer and Fix, and Trebla bleach (if my memory holds) from Pakor. Fairly economical that way. I reuse the bleach once, but the others are used one shot.

  5. #15

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    I began doing my own color this year. So far I've been using the Unicolor C-41 press kit, which seems to work fine except for the horrible grain. Is there any way to deplete that residual silver? It can be corrected digitally of course, but I'd rather have good clean negs to print than scans.

    The sad thing is, even if one wants to use the much better Kodak chemicals there's no instruction as to what you need. I mean, whats a fixer + replenisher all about?
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  6. #16
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    You can re-bleach, wash, fix wash and stabilize. That should fix the problem for you unless it is a developer problem. Use a good bleach and fix, not a blix.

    PE

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfeye View Post
    I began doing my own color this year. So far I've been using the Unicolor C-41 press kit, which seems to work fine except for the horrible grain. Is there any way to deplete that residual silver? It can be corrected digitally of course, but I'd rather have good clean negs to print than scans.

    The sad thing is, even if one wants to use the much better Kodak chemicals there's no instruction as to what you need. I mean, whats a fixer + replenisher all about?
    Check the sticky threads in the Darkrroom:Color Chemicals section. There's a reasonable discussion of what all that gobbledy-gook means there.

    And here is a posting from that thread where I posted links to instructions from Ian Mazursky for Kodak chems.

    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbsc View Post
    Some time ago someone posted a file from Ian Mazursky at PrePress Express about splitting either the Kodak E6 or the C41 chems, I cannot remember which one. I've been in touch with him off and on over the months, and he has done us all a service by gathering all the details into two spreadsheets - one for C41 and one for E6 - about how to split the dizzying array of Kodak chemicals into useful quantities. According to Ian this has been reviewed by Kodak and given the green light.

    Mind you this is not how to get a 1L or 2L kit. It's the bulk stuff they sell now, which is a boatload of chemistry to buy. This is instructions on how to actually use the stuff in small quantities once you figure out a place that will sell it and ship it to you. And no comment about whether the ratios work for other vendor's chemicals. Don't count on it.

    The two spreadsheets are on Ian's download page here: http://www.prepressexpress.com/pages...downloads.html

    They are about halfway down under the photography tag.

    The direct links are:

    E6: http://www.prepressexpress.com/downl...Chemicals.xlsx

    C41: http://www.prepressexpress.com/downl...Chemicals.xlsx
    Michael Batchelor
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  8. #18

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    I'm using a phototherm, they do chemistry as one-shot and I've had Excellent results, of course, I have enough chemistry for atleast 100 Gallons of developer and bleach, so I'm setting on go. when I had a jobo, 3:15 was perfect, but I'm not good with the manual controls of a jobo, I prefer something more automated.

    I do tend to rewash my film after I've developed it for a few minutes using my film washer, I've had issues with spotting. And don't tell PE, but I put a drop of Photoflow in the last dump. Been working fine for the last dozen rolls I've done this with.

  9. #19

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    So should Tetenal chemistry with 3-part developer plus required starter, bleach and universal C-41/E-6 fix work well? What type of stabilizer should I have? Do I have to use a different stabilizer with Fuji 160NS expired in 1998?

  10. #20
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    Stabilizer will work, not final rinse. I think Tetenal only makes stabilizer IIRC.
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