Heck, you're only 3 hours from me. Come on, well have a printing party. You bring the beer.
Thy heart -- thy heart! -- I wake and sigh,
And sleep to dream till day
Of the truth that gold can never buy
Of the bawbles that it may.
I just may do that. Thanks for the invite! I have a family member that has a office there in memphis that i was thinking about going to visit with so i can get some photos of memphis.
I'm doing some sums to decide how to get into C41 too, but have a few questions about the actual figures rather than manufacturers figures.
I can get tetenal 1L kits for $44 at my local shop (and yeah, it's 15euro from maco but that's another story), or order a 1L digibase kit from maco, the difference being that the order from germany costs 44 euro to ship.
Now if the two kits do a similar number of rolls and have similar storage properties, I'll buy locally to save on shipping. But with the tetenal kits rated for half the number of rolls as the digibase kits, I'll pay the shipping costs. So do the tetenal kits actually just do half the number of rolls?
Also, I'd be looking to mix up 500ml solutions to use over a period of 3 months or so, then make up the other half of the kit (storing using R134a to displace oxygen, out of direct light but not refrigerated). Will both kits give usable results over that time? if the digibase kit can't work under those conditions I'd probably end up wasting half the capacity anyway meaning it's not worth the shipping cost. I scan my negatives and just do hobby stuff, so I'm looking for "good" results rather than reference quality results.
Lastly, how do the tetenal powder kits fit into this? I generally don't like working with powders and they cost more with shipping from the US than buying the 1L kit locally.
And also, while tetenal and digibase say 10&20 rolls respectively, how many rolls can I reasonably expect to get using the "good enough" criteria?
Last edited by postalman; 10-25-2011 at 07:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Another Memphis guy here, and know guitstik well. I've been developing B&W and C-41 for quite a while now, and just this year made the leap into printing. I still need more practice -- and motivation to print -- but I'm getting there.
postalman: The Digibase kit conforms better to the C-41 standard since it uses separate bleach and fix, unlike the Tetenal kit that uses blix. And YES, you can mix up only as much of the Digibase as you need. (I buy the largest capacity kit available, to save on shipping.) Just beware that the bleach and fix have longer capacities than the developer, and the stabilizer longest of all. So don't do as I did and throw out ALL your mixed chemistry when your developer exhausts/expires. You can get roughly 12-15 rolls per liter of developer... possibly more if you have lower quality standards.
"Embrace the negative with absolution, your final positive reward." --IQ, "The Province," Frequency
Thanks for the info. Is 12-15 rolls per litre for tetenal or digibase? Other reports I've read say 2-3 times the published value can be achieved with ~2.5 being the "it's just getting silly now" point.
Do you know why tetenal and digibase even have different values? I thought the C41 formula was pretty much fixed. Are they changing concentrations or something?
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Actually, while I agree with encouraging optical printing, that's wrong and slightly pessimistic on two counts.
Originally Posted by polyglot
One, you certainly don't need a color head. I've printed a LOT of RA4 and type R back in the 80s and 90s and never owned a color head. You just need a condenser head with a filter drawer, which virtually all of them have, and a set of color printing filters. It's a tiny bit slower, but only a tiny bit when seen as part of the overall process, but results are fine and indistinguishable (at least as far as the image quality - color heads are diffusion sources and will show dust and imperfections less than condenser heads though.) A color head is easier to use with an analyzer too, but I never had an analyzer.
Secondly, you most certainly can use a safelight. I have an Osram Duka 50 that works great, and which I now save for color as soon as I can get back into it (used it a lot for black and white in the old days.) If you can find a used one, that's probably best. Set for RA4 it's quite useful, and safe - set for lowest level and bounce off a white ceiling. OTOH, the bulbs are no longer made so when it dies, it's dead. There may be LED light that are RA4 safe; I'm not sure about that. I have a Jobo Maxlux that has a color setting but I've not yet tried it with RA4. The other alternative is a conventional safelight with a color printing filter. I believe it's a #13. In spite of dire sounding warnings in official published Kodak materials, PE has said they routinely used one at Kodak, and I know other people who have done so with no problems. This will be quite dim, but you'd be surprised how little light it takes to make a useful difference. It's much better than nothing. (I even used my Duka 50 for Ilfochrome and type R both of which were "supposed" to be total darkness only, tested and found to be safe.)
Last edited by Roger Cole; 10-26-2011 at 04:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.
I use a dim Kodak #13 color safe light filter for color. It doesn't provide much light but I can see where the trays are at least! Using a B&W amber safelight OC (Ilford 902) WILL fog the paper horribly CYAN but try a sheet if you like. I used to do it in total darkness and it can be done but the proper #13 light is better.
I get at least 25 rolls of out a 1L Tetenal kit. Some people go for 30 or more. I suspect most of the kits will go further than they say.
RA-4 is cheap, again you have to do more than the Kodak recommended 16 8x10 sheets per litre of solution. I do about 4 times that easily so I get like 500 8x10 or 1000 5x7 sheets out of a Ektacolor RT 10L RA-4 kit. If you buy expired Endura paper it is really cheap, you can get a long roll for $30 if you find a great deal, even $100 is a good deal for what ends up being 500-1000 sheets of cut paper, cents the the sheet! Otherwise pre-cut Fuji Crystal Archive is still quite cheap, certainly cheaper than B&W paper.
Is there a good reference to making color prints from negatives? I assume that if you have a properly exposed and developed negative then you pretty much just have do dial in the filter settings listed on the RA4 paper insert? What about temps? Is it also high-temp?
Originally Posted by polyglot
My experience is that sodium safelights like the DUKA 10 or 50 are safe at a low setting while still giving enough light to see what you are doing.
Unfortunately the prospect of working in total darkness which isn't necessary can put a lot of people off RA4 printing.