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  1. #1
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Tetenal E6, milky BX part 2?

    I have used the Tetenal 5 liter E6 3-bath kit for some time now and remember the BX part 2 concentrate as fully transparent liquid. I usually mix about 500-700ml for each multi run and seal the containers with the concentrate after applying a healthy dose of Protectan. The concentrate is stored in the basement where it is cool but not below freezing point. I have successfully used one such kit in the course of over a year without any visible changes in the concentrates.

    For some mysterious reason the BX2 part (the part which looks more like fixer than like bleach) of the concentrate I have been working with for the last half year has turned into a white, milky liquid. The chemistry still seems to work - the slides look as expected, but I would really like to know what happened here. Unlike FD, CD and bleach the effect from incomplete fixing isn't necessarily obvious right away but may bite me later. Of all the components of the E6 kit the one which looks like fixer was certainly the last one I would have suspected of going bad - in the middle of winter.

    Has "milky" BX2 gone bad or is this completely harmless? Is there some way I can replace the BX2 with home brew chemicals? If indeed only fixing is incomplete, is there a chance I can redo this step with b&w fixer?
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  2. #2

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    Personally, I'd save the rest of this kit for unimportant rolls, test rolls, playing around type shots. Or just discard it. You dont need to find out 5 years from now the chems went bad and your slides are color shifted and or trashed. If you got close to a years use out of the kit, you got your moneys worth, and then some. Time to order a fresh kit from Maco Direct. Runs around $125-150US, shipping included for the 5 Liter kit which will run up to 60 rolls. Or, order the Tetenal E6/C41 Stabilizer from Maco and get the Arista kit from Freestyle Photo here in US. Just went thru the Arista 1 Gallon kit, with good results. Have a Tetenal kit waiting to be opened, to compare.

  3. #3
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply! Sure, the easiest way would be to just toss out the old dev kit and start with a fresh kit. The kit which causes the problems is only half a year old, I used the previous kit over a whole year without problems. I did store the previous kit in my fridge, not in the basement, so that may be the difference, I just don't like the idea of smelly poisonous chemicals in my fridge. The thing that surprised me most was that it seems to be the fixer which changes, I would have expected the FD or CD to be the first ones to go bad. Since colors and brightness are ok, I assume that FD, CD and BX1 are still in good working condition.

    I will try refixing the leader of that film roll in b&w fixer, I am curious whether it makes a (positive and visible) difference or not. To my untrained eye this recipe doesn't look all that different from b&w fixer. I will report on my progress.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  4. #4
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    For all who care: Tetenal tech support confirmed that my BX2 is dead and that I shouldn't use it.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  5. #5
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    The milky fluid is bad! Don't use it.

    For a replacement, get some C41 fixer or something similar.

    PE

  6. #6

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    refrigeration is also bad - check your Tetenal Box, it has a Minimum storage temperature specified.

  7. #7
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pukalo View Post
    refrigeration is also bad - check your Tetenal Box, it has a Minimum storage temperature specified.
    Funny thing is the kit I stored in the fridge lasted for a whole year opened, while the kit I stored in my basement lasted less than half a year. The problem may be completely unrelated to my storage, Tetenal asked for the number printed on the container.

    So I am still stuck with the question: can I use B&W fixer to refix the color slides or do I have to play games with the pH value or other compounds?
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  8. #8
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    You can use a neutral B&W fixer without hardener for a substitute E6 fix. Do not use any acid or alkaline fix, nor any with hardener.

    PE

  9. #9
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Thanks, PE, for your advice. Now let's assume I have some standard B&W fixer (e.g. Ilford Rapid Fixer), which is, AFAIK acidic. Is there an easy way to make it neutral without destroying its properties or is it better to home brew mix something from scratch?
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  10. #10
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    It is ever a good idea to modify a formula without knowing what is in it. You run too great a risk with your image stability when it comes to color. If you adjust it must be between 6.0 and 6.5. I would use 28% Acetic Acid and 3% Ammonium Hydroxide as a guess and be very careful. The adjustment may cause other problems.

    PE

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