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  1. #1

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    Low times With Durst M601 & CLS 66

    Hi all!

    Been looking around the forums for this one but seems tricky.
    I am getting 10-14 seconds for 6x6 prints using my Durst m601 color head CLS66 80mm lens fully stepped down, highest f-stop at 18cmx18cm.
    I cant just raise the head as mentioned by some to get more exposure time, since I want those 18x18cm prints.
    Can I use the color head dials to introduce colors and reduce the intensity?
    Can I use some kind of DIY material to put on the filter tray? What should I avoid doing?

    I want longer times to get a better chance to control the steps in control strips and be able to perform the burn & dodging the way God intended it to.

    Thank you in advance~

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Yes you can use the Cyan filter as a ND filter along with Yellow and Magenta, or better still add a ND in the filter drawer. Adding 20y 20m 20c gives ND, just see what you need then adjust the M or Y to get your contrast.

    Another alternative is to use a longer FL lens like a 105mm which will increase the height.

    Ian

  3. #3
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Yes you can use the Cyan filter as a ND filter along with Yellow and Magenta,
    Adding cyan filtration will remove red and will make the projected baseboard image look dimmer to your eye (which is sensitive to red) but the printing paper (which is not sensitive to red) won't respond with any difference.

    If you are using graded paper, you can remove blue light by dialing in yellow filtration. A very rough guide is 30cc per 'stop' of exposure.

    If I were in your situation, I'd get a ND filter and just screw it onto the threads of the enlarger lens.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 04-30-2012 at 07:15 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I think you entirely missed the point ic-racer, dialing in the same filtration with all 3 filters gives ND. A technique used in many colour labs is to add a set CC to each colour channel as ND filtration when times are too short.

    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    If you are using graded paper, you can remove blue light by dialing in yellow filtration. A very rough guide is 30cc per 'stop' of exposure.
    That then drops the contrast as well.

    If the contrast filtration required is say 15m then adding 30 to each filter ie - 30y 45m 30c, gives a reasonably ND effect.

    Ian

  5. #5

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    Great advice all! thanks!
    Sadly my color head has a scale from 0-100, I heard most standerd color filtrations are in the range from 0-130/170? Am I wrong? Hows should I interpret 30/30/30 (standard) on my head? (0-100)?
    How much is to be expected from using 50/50/50 on my cls head (with another 50/50/50 freedom range for contrast control)?

  6. #6
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Don't worry about the various different systems some were based on Kodak filtration and other Agfa etc look in an Ilford Multigrade datasheet they give the filtrations for the various systems.

    All that matters to you is if you dial in 10y 10m 10c you get a degree of ND filtration, 20 or 30 of each is just greater ND filtration. My M601 and CLS66 is in storage (it's a spare now) or I'd tell you exactly but very roughly 10y 10m 10c should be about 1 stop and so on.

    Ian



 

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