Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,531   Posts: 1,572,623   Online: 967
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,022

    Making a negative print with paper second negative

    I am going to print my negative image as a negative. I'm looking for some ideas from people with experience.

    The way I'm thinking of doing this is to first print my negative image (on film) onto a paper. My neg will be "flipped" so the image on this first print (positive) will be wrong way. I'm thinking using #1 or #0 grade filter for this first print. Then, I'm going to sandwich this print onto another paper emulsion side to emulsion side, then expose with say #3 grade filter.

    A couple of questions.
    Are my filter choices right? I kind of got an idea from a note from Ilford for the first exposure. I'm only guessing on second.
    For the paper negative/positive, I'm going to use an RC. I only have pearl surface. Should this be glossy?
    Are there any other way of doing this that doesn't involve paper negative? I am aware of Harmon direct positive paper but these are awfully expensive. Anything else?
    Can someone guesstimate the second exposure? I know it will be long. How much more in stops compared to the first?

    Thanks.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  2. #2
    markbarendt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Beaverton, OR, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    5,793
    Blog Entries
    3
    Images
    19
    Sounds fun, don't know.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,022
    I was going to "just do it" but started to think a bit to get a bearing.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  4. #4
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    NYC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,006
    You can easily do this with ortho litho film if you need to go the contact print method. In my class I taught today we contacted printed cyanotypes with images created on ortholitho film in the darkroom. It was the end of the box of Arista branded litho film, and I have just ordered a box of 100 8x10 sheets from photo warehouse (ultrafine film brand) for about $85 plus shipping (ps its cheaper to order off their amazon store as shipping is only $5 instead of the $8 they are charging on their own site, plus you can use your amazon account).

    If you dont need to contact print it just take a picture (copy) of your negative on negative film so you get a positive, and print with that.

    Your paper to paper method also works well, but its not always the sharpest way. Always emulsion to emulsion, and use a good large piece of glass/plexi glass

  5. #5
    Greg Davis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Crestview Hills, KY
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,950
    Have you considered getting a small package of Harman direct positive paper and eliminating the intermediate steps despite the price? But by all means, I don't want to discourage you from trying your idea and getting new results. The images may be very interesting with the added paper texture.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

    "No one knows that day or hour, not even the angels in heaven, nor the Son, but only the Father." -Matthew 24:36

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    florida
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,179
    Images
    2
    I haven't made a paper negative in many years but you do need single weight paper. You probably will need to make the negative on the contrasty side and will need to have ample light so a #3 filter will most likely call for a long exposure. consider the #3 to make the negative and not using a filter for the contact print. The film suggestion is easier.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

  7. #7
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Boston area
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,322
    Images
    26
    You don't mention what format you're using, but I had good experience making a positive transparency (which will print negative) by placing the original neg and a new sheet of film in a film holder together– emulsion to emulsion. I then used a shutter without a lens and exposed the film by shooting the surface of a light table––no resolved image to mess up the copy. Once I worked out the exposure it gave me very good results.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,022
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteymorange View Post
    You don't mention what format you're using, but I had good experience making a positive transparency (which will print negative) by placing the original neg and a new sheet of film in a film holder together– emulsion to emulsion. I then used a shutter without a lens and exposed the film by shooting the surface of a light table––no resolved image to mess up the copy. Once I worked out the exposure it gave me very good results.

    This is a brilliant idea. Thank you.

    It's 35mm.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  9. #9
    Bill Burk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    3,529
    Images
    46
    Maybe you can put oil on a paper negative to make it more translucent? I tried on a test strip and a greased spot measured two stops (0.6) less density than the dry print.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,022
    I have no idea if this will work well enough but I just put a neg on a light table and took photograph of it using a macro lens. I should know in few days when I dev the film.

    The trick with this is that this original neg is scratched. I used "no-scratch" but I am not sure if this method will work for duplication like this.

    I'll report back when I have the result.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin