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  1. #1
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    PMK Negs & Split Contrast Printing

    Split Contrast printing is a technique I really believe in and use exclusively with standard developed negatives, but I am having a terrible time with my first PMK negs.

    Does anybody here use Split Contrast and PMK negs successfully?

  2. #2
    lee
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    I do it all the time. What is the issue?

    lee\c
    Last edited by lee; 12-07-2004 at 03:09 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: left out a word and to keep me from looing like a dork

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    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    As well , print pyro negs all the time with split filter method , don,t see any problems with it.

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    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee
    I do it all the time. What is the issue?

    lee\c

    Bob Carnie As well , print pyro negs all the time with split filter method , don,t see any problems with it.
    My highlights are mudding up with grade 5 filter (Chromega color Head). A straight print at G3 produces a "nice" print but not the qualities I'm used to form split contrasting (Seagull VC-FB). To get good blacks I'm opening the lens 2 stops + an increase in exposure time.

  5. #5
    lee
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    Bruce,

    try this: Make a test print on a full sheet of paper using the magenta printer (filter) and pick the place where black just starts to get really black. Now make an exposure using the magenta printers time just discovered. Leave the paper in place and make another test print over the top of the magenta printer using the yellow printer. Pick a time that is good for the highlight. Now make a print using both the times and both the filters and process as usual. I have found that a lot of people when starting out select too dark an exposure for one or the other or both exposure. Something else to consider is LEAVE THE LENS STOPPED DOWN DURING THE PRINTING. The other possiblity is maybe you are exposing the film too long. Rating the film to low. I generally use Ilford's HP5+ with PMK and I rate the film at the box film.

    lee\c

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    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Quick ques
    When using the chromega colour head.

    1. Are you using white light and putting a grade 5 and grade 0 under the lens?
    2. If not and you are using the magenta dial and the yellow dial for #5 and #0. how did you determine these contrast values? are you sure you are high enough on the magenta for grade 5 and high enough on the yellow for grade 0??

  7. #7
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    What do you get with a "normal" grade 2 print? Did you do film speed and development tests before trying to print an image?

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    It would seem that a couple of areas of potential cause exist.

    If there is not enough density range in the camera negative then all the split grade printing in the world will not accomplish much. Les McLean has reported this. I have found this to be true in my experience too. For a diffusion light source I would have my density range up near 1.35. That is density range (high density minus low density) not Zone VIII density above FB+fog.

    That being said, the stain color from PMK developer will work against highlight tonal separation on VC materials. This has been substantiated by sensitometric testing by Howard Bond as published in the latest Photo Techniques magazine.

  9. #9
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
    Quick ques
    When using the chromega colour head.

    1. Are you using white light and putting a grade 5 and grade 0 under the lens?
    2. If not and you are using the magenta dial and the yellow dial for #5 and #0. how did you determine these contrast values? are you sure you are high enough on the magenta for grade 5 and high enough on the yellow for grade 0??
    Bob, I'm using 0 filter at White Light and then M170 at High Light (flip the lever to introduce dial-in filtration)

    I determined the 0 exposure by step wedge to establish least amount of time to get something more than paper base. Expose second sheet at the 0 filter time and proceed with M-170 making step tablet on top of first. Then I decide what I think is the right combined exposure and print it. Then comes the tweaking, B & D, developing embellishments, etc.

  10. #10
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Oh yes, one more thing.

    I am over exposing the film. BPH 200 @ 125. Just working from past experience of over exposing film. Camera exposure determined by grey card and developed 12 minutes @ 20c.

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