In order for the lens board retainer to work properly, the self-tapping screws that hold the front and rear lens board retainer plates in position must be fully screwed in. Leaving one or more of these screws partially loose in an attempt to fix the problem is a poor practice and doesnt address the actual problem.
Just sayin', nowhere in my post did I suggest loosening the screws should be used as an on-going fix. The OP was interested in removing the lens board and nowhere in her posts did she mention looking for a such a B-grade solution. Luckily there are APUG members such as yourself who, owning duplicate hardware, can experiment and determine a process that works better should lens board removal become more than an occasional chore.
I photograph things to see what things look like photographed.
- Garry Winogrand
We think alike. The first time this happen to me, a lens board & lens got trapped in the retainer. It went in hard, but was impossible to remove. The only way I could get it out was to remove the screws holding the front plate.
Those screws are for leveling the lens, not holding it in place. They were popular in the 60's
Those 2 screws at teh very back only hold the spring in place n are not lens levelers at all. Once the 2 screws are out the metal angle comes out n behid that is the spring that is only a tensioner for the lens board.
The 2 knobs are for holding the lens board nice n tight to the mount reducing light leaking, some even had a strip of light seal foam.
The lens is leveled by the entire stage.
Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.
So. You guys are not going to believe this, but...
I decided to give things one more try before taking that front plate off. I loosened but did not remove the two plastic screws, braced my hands against the head, and pushed the lens back and down firmly with both thumbs...and it did, in fact, pop right out. Maybe all the fussing I did with it last weekend loosened up the spring, or maybe I was just able to picture the motion I needed better after learning more about it. Either way, thanks to everyone who chimed in! I've got the new lens and board in, and it seems to work just fine with my negatives.
The 8021 and 8023 are functionally the same. The 8021 has a recess bored on the front side. Early 23c's had a slide-in filter holder immediately behind the lensmount. It would collide with the rear of similar vintage 50mm f2.8 EL-Nikkor lenses. The 8023, with a recess bored on the back side pushed it just enough out to clear. Either should be fine for most 50-105mm lenses.