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  1. #1
    Pfiltz's Avatar
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    Reciprocity failure as it relates to paper

    to Printing. I've heard the term when shooting film, but how does it relate to printing. Are we talking about it while exposing the paper, or the development of the paper? Just started my DR, and trying to figure all this out. So far, all I've done are 5x7's and (1) 8x10.

    Last night I was trying to get the most out of a negative that was shot in Seattle earlier this year. I did a step wedge to kind of figure out my base exposure, which was 45 seconds @ f22, on some Ilford RC paper. I was using a No.2 filter, and did 4 separate exposures and ended up at 1.30 seconds @ f22, while dodging / burning ... Close to what I want, but not quite there.

    Does Reciprocity failure come into play in the darkroom during the development phase? I was developing for 2.15 seconds in Arista.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Pfiltz; 11-28-2012 at 08:43 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    Unless your printing times are into the minutes, it does not really begin to have a noticeable effect. And did you know that you can write your thread title as whole sentences instead of cutting off into the thread body? Just FYI.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

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  3. #3

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    I've never experienced reciprocity failure when printing but you might consider accommodating for "dry down" where the dry print will appear darker than it did wet in the fixer or wash. My experience and impression is that most of these photographic nuiances and effects are personal for each photographer and darkroom (doing the same thing I do in my darkroom may give you a different result in yours). Charts, graphs, mfg's recommendations and advice should be a starting point and tweaked to give you the result you desire.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

  4. #4

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    For practical purposes paper does not have reciprocity failure. I learned this the hard way when using in-camera paper negatives.

  5. #5
    Pfiltz's Avatar
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    Rbeech, I didn't think so, but I kept reading and/or seeing that term mentioned in the Darkroom area, so I thought I'd ask.

    Thanks all.

  6. #6

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    If you can manage it, don't stop down so far as it will really reduce the sharpness of the image. Your enlarger may have neutral-density built-in, if it is the diffusion type, or use a piece of ND filter in the filter tray. Small enlargements are sometimes tricky with a bright enlarger as the time is short, but a tiny aperture (and hence a bit of diffraction) might not be the best solution. To save fiddling around with step wedges use your contact-sheet as a sort of enlarging-meter. Do a search on in here for contact-prints and maximum-black.

  7. #7
    Pfiltz's Avatar
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    Thanks Martin. I have the Omega D2, and it has a filter tray. I'll pick up some ND filters as well. I do have a contact printer too that I can use.

    Right now, I'm just stumbling along in the DR learning as I go, and trying to read up on it as much as I can here, and watching some YouTubes.

    Matter of fact, while I was waiting for my enlarger to get put together, I was doing contact prints in the bathroom, because I just had to see what these neg's looked like. Been building up a small inventory of 4x5's,

  8. #8
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    ra-4 colour paper has reicprocity failure, as well as cross over of curves at long exposure times. Most sources advise to keep ra-4 expsoure times between 5 and 30 seconds.
    my real name, imagine that.

  9. #9

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    Oh, my apologies - I missed the bit of your sig which mentions 4x5". With such relatively small magnification factors there would be hardly any fuzziness to see. It can be more noticeable with 35mm for example.

  10. #10
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Ilford makes black and white paper for digital exposure as well. The spectral sensitivity data for that paper is based on an exposure time of 1/10,000 of a second.

    I point that out as an example of where paper has been optimized for a particular exposure range.

    So I would suggest to the OP that it is wise to do your best to keep exposures within a practical range of about 2 - 90 seconds.

    And f/22 isn't usually the best aperture on a lens.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

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