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Thread: flashing ?

  1. #1

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    flashing ?

    Hello board - I've been a reader for a while but have finally joined. I am struggling to print a high contrast negative. I can either get foreground detail and a white sky...or detail in the sky and a murky dark foreground. I tried a split grade print which improved matters, but on the whole was pretty muddy and the foreground was still too dark (sky was ok-ish).

    If I understand what I've read, flashing might help matters....do I :

    remove the negative and flash through the carrier ?

    flash at grade 0, or at the grade at which I intend to print (2, I think)

    do I have to flash then expose a test strip to work out exposure times, or can I use an unflashed test strip ?

    what effect will using flashe paper have on any dodging / burning timings ?

    thanks in advance...

  2. #2
    Loose Gravel's Avatar
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    Flashing will reduce the contrast in the highlights when printing or in the shadows when photographing. The easiest way to flash that I've found (for printing) is to put a piece of white plexiglass or equivalent in front of the lens. This means you don't have to remove the negative. Flash to threshold -- just below where the paper first shows it. More if it works for you. It should not affect dodging or burning unless these activities were for securing details in the highlights. Give it a try.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  3. #3
    titrisol's Avatar
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    wha about post-flashing?
    Mama took my APX away.....

  4. #4
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    In practical terms, you can either flash before making the enlarging exposure or after - whichever floats your boat.

    I use a sheet of drafting film glued to an 8x10" cardboard frame - hold it below the lens and expose (through the negative) for about 10-15% of the basic exposure. The process is experimental, so it's not possible to provide scientific guidance on how low.

    The theory behind flashing is to add a small amount of exposure uniformly over the entire print. The impact of this incremental exposure on shadows is negligible, but when done properly it will result in the addition of detectable tonality in blank highlights.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by titrisol
    wha about post-flashing?
    What about it? You get your fingers all messy from the ink, a nice portrait taken, and then it is off to a little barred room where a large guy named Muffy, who is in drag, asks for your number and a little......Ooops your talking about in the darkrrom aren't you?

    I actually tried this once and found I got better results in preflashing.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  6. #6
    djklmnop's Avatar
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    Have you tried reducing the negative?
    Money is not the problem. The problem is, I don't have any.

  7. #7
    titrisol's Avatar
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    tsk tsk tsk Mark.. or were you watching PulpFiction last night?
    Mama took my APX away.....

  8. #8

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    Uh...Forgot what forum this was....um It didn't comeout right....AH hell you have no pictures so you can't prove a thing...Now where are those wipes the damn ink is mucking up my keyboard, can't see the letters anymore.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  9. #9
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Have you tried simply burning in the sky? That's always my 1st line of attack.

    Cheers, Bob.

  10. #10
    glbeas's Avatar
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    I use a small lamp mounted to the wall on a timer and a dimmer. Once I find a good level of flashing for a particular paper I can redo it consistently regardless of what the enlarger is set to.
    Gary Beasley

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