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  1. #11
    piu58's Avatar
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    They key to more pronounced structures in a print is to increase the contrast of the paper. This contrast is above the overall needings for the image in most cases. This is when burning and dodging comes in: You have to balance the overall contrast with the help of these techniques.
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    Uwe Pilz

  2. #12
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    I recommend some reading on printing. The first one is The Negative by Ansel Adams. And one by an APUGer Ralph Lambrecht. The man is a genius.

    http://www.waybeyondmonochrome.com/WBM2/Welcome.html
    "Photography, like surfing, is an infinite process, a constantly evolving exploration of life."
    Aaron Chang

  3. #13

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    One technique for bringing out highlights within a shadow area is to use a bleach such as potassium ferricyanide. Make your print as usual (on FB paper), and wash completely after fixing. Mix up a very dilute solution of potassium ferricyanide, and paint it onto the area of the print where you want to pop out the highlights, and rinse the area almost immediately with running water. The bleach will take away some of the silver which leads to darkness and enhance the highlights. It works better at bringing out detail in highlights and doesn't do much in the shadow areas.

  4. #14
    piu58's Avatar
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    > Ralph Lambrecht. The man is a genius.
    yes.
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    Uwe Pilz

  5. #15

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    I've read most of these posts, I think. And I have a question. Would flashing have been of any value in this instance? Is this photo the kind that can be done that way?

  6. #16

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    Not likely. At least not overall flashing. Flashing reduces total and local contrast. It is the same as reducing the contrast grade of paper/filter. It can sometimes be helpful when it is localized.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    It is a contrasty subject, which can lead to underexposure (depending on metering technique) when photographing, which adds to the challenge of printing a contrasty negative.

    Printing should always begin with an evaluation of the negative.
    agree!

    compaq, to me your photo looks underexposed, which could be explained by the light meter taking in more highlight than shadow zones. I've turned to incident light metering, setting film ISO half a stop under box speed and developing as per box recipe. that gives me shadow details and good contrast.
    peter

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