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  1. #21

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    Hello all. Thank you for helping me out.

    Definitely there are some good suggestions to try. This can be confusing for somebody new to darkroom wizardry.

    Thomas, I find your idea interesting. I'll definitely try your method.

    Thanks Michael. I start by exposing first segment for 5 sec, than I move light blocking sheet to the next segment and expose that segment for 5 sec. So the first segment is now exposed for 10 sec, than I move blocker to the next segment, expose it for 5 sec.So the first segment is now exposed for 15 sec and so on. At the end my last segment is exposed for 5 seconds and the firs one foe 30 seconds.

  2. #22

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    This whole thread tells me the OP is just trying to "ballpark" at this stage of printing. And for that, I suggest a Kodak Projection Print Scale. That thing has far more that is useful for than the name describes. And cuts out a lot of this needless experimentation.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    This whole thread tells me the OP is just trying to "ballpark" at this stage of printing.
    Sorry I don't understand what you mean by this. Care to elaborate?

    SloboM

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by SloboM View Post
    Sorry I don't understand what you mean by this. Care to elaborate?

    SloboM
    Yeah, sounds to me like you'd be happy enough right now at this stage to just get down some exposure times that make sense. No doubt you're up and down with the enlarger column, every negative is different, and you're just looking to get some exposure consistency. I'm betting right now, you're struggling to get some times and lens openings at least in the same city as you. I'll bet very little makes sense to you right now. (I could be mis-reading you). And if this is the case, I'd say get a Kodak PP Scale, and go with that a while. And if you go on Ralph Lambrecht's site and get an enlarger height compensation graph, and you'll be cranking out some serious prints is a few days.

  5. #25

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  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    You go backwards like that, so that the first strip is 32 seconds, next is 22 seconds, etc. It gives you one full stop between strips and gives you a better idea of what different levels of exposure will do in your final print.
    Thomas, do you stop and start your timer or 'wing' it as you see the numbers come up?

  7. #27
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Nige,

    I use a metronome ticking seconds.

    Keeps it simple and frees up both hands to work.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #28

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    Thanks Tom.

  9. #29

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    If you mean me... sure. Kodak had it all figured out, and their system always worked good enough for me.

  10. #30
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    I have to say, I soon got fed up with test strips, contrast adjustments, enlarger height compensation and bought an RH Analyser Pro. It has a little bit of a learning curve to get the "feel" of where to take the measurements, and is not cheap, but........virtually zero wasted paper these days and a very high proportion of prints I am happy with 1st time. It's also a real education tool because you soon see how time and settings change if you alter the contrast or change to a different paper. I am sure if I had persevered with just using test strips, I would have become much better at interpreting them, but I got impatient!

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