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  1. #11
    johnnywalker's Avatar
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    Generally two stops for a scene with lots of snow. Use a yellow or orange filter, brings out the subtleties the shadows in the snow and helps separate sky from snow. If in doubt meter a grey card or something close. Bracket. Generally what roqueish said.
    If I had been present at the creation, I would have given some useful hints for the better arrangement of the Universe.
    Alfonso the Wise, 1221-1284

  2. #12
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    Hi Frank. Here's about the best description I've read; it's from page 33 of "The New Zone System Manual" (revised edition) by White - Zakia - Lorenz. (First names are Minor - Richard - Peter). These are their Zone System descriptions that refer to snow:

    "Zone VI...Caucasian skin in sunlight, but not glare or highlights. Snow in shadow when both sun and shadow are in the same picture. Clear North sky with orthochromatic film. Poured concrete buildings in overcast light.

    Zone VII...TEXTURED BRIGHTS. Light skin entirely in diffuse light. Average snow in raking sun; light gray concrete; bright colors. "Whites" with textures and delicate values. Sense of substance remains tactile.

    Zone VIII...Last vestiges of texture. Glaring surfaces; snow in flat light; whites without texture."

    Hope this helps...have a good trip and feel free to hug a Canadian...Sleeman's is a good beer too!

    Murray

  3. #13

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    Snow texture is best photographed in cross light. I meter with a spot meter and set exposure 1 1/2 to 2 stops more as the snow is white, not grey.

    I use an incident meter for overall readings.

    Overcast conditions make poor snow pictures unless it is actually snowing. Then try some with 1/8 sec shutter.

  4. #14

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    You want snow we got snow now. All the snow you might ever want. :rolleyes:

  5. #15
    FrankB's Avatar
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    Many thanks for all the assistance!

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