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  1. #1
    Sjixxxy's Avatar
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    A new adventure, advice needed.

    Last weekend I did a photo shoot with a band out of Minneapolis for the 8x10 glossies to go with the promo pack for thier new album. Was fun. I used my Speed Graphic and thought that my hands were going to fall off due to the horrid windchill, but got some good photos that they like. A Gallery of Q&D neg scans

    Now I need to turn whatever images they like, into a big pile of glossies. This is something I've never done before. I'd like to A) Keep things as wet as possible. B) Not outsource to a company to do the work since being unemployed sucks and the money is well needed.

    Here is what I'm thinking, please let me know if any of this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

    I'm pretty sure they want text on the photos, so I'll print up a sheet of paper with whatever text logos on it are needed, leaving space for the image. Then make a wet print of the image to the size that will fit into the area were there isn't' no text. Crop it down and attach it to the sheet. I'm thinking paper photo corners would make for a nice effect, or rough pieces of masking tape on the corners. We'll have to see what they want. Once I get a layout made this way, make a 4x5 copy negative using my 135mm EL-Nikkor Enlarging lens instead of the old Raptar. The finest grain film I have right now is some Delta 100. Would this do good enough for making a copy negative? I've never done any real copy work, so any tips would be great.

    From there, it is a matter of making 100+ prints. (we'll see how many they want) I figure make a few test prints, then when I decide which one is best, set the enlarger & timer up for it, and just keep pulling paper out of one box, exposing it, and stuffing it back into another. Maybe do batches of 20 or so, just in case something goes wrong I don't end up with a horrible flaw on 100 sheets of paper. I figure then I can just take each bundle and do a rapid fire processing session. when one hits the fix, I throw another into the developer. When that one catches up I move the one from the fix into a holding bath. Or maybe even do two at a time back to back? Every 20 or so, take to the wash and put a few in. When time is up, pull out one for drying, and add another. Since I don't have room for 100 prints to lay around and air dry, I figure I can is a hair dryer to rapid dry. Would this be fine? I never hear of anyone using a hairdryer on final prints, but we used to do it with our RC work prints back in college, and I'm not seeing any issues with them yet from being dried this way.

    I guess that is the basic rundown of my plans. Anything here setting me up for tragedy? Anywhere I can be more efficient? Just give up now and outsource so some digital company who can under price me? [SIZE=1](eeek)[/SIZE]
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  2. #2
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Having done a bunch of band press photos, make the image 8x10 and then fit the text into the image. Based on the band's website and mp3s I think it would fit if you printed the 8x10, scotch taped letters onto the print and then shot that. Would give the final print a little more edge to it IMO.

    Most bands have these output digitally because of the cost/time factor to handprint a bunch of glossies.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  3. #3
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    If you want to do this all yourself , go for it , I agree with Jeremy that now its done digitally but I have done thousands of these prints by hand before digital showed its abilitys
    I think doing a copy shot is not a bad idea but you will be second generation and the type will not be sharp.
    here is how I use to do it

    Get the layout on the paper set before you start

    1.have a line negative made of the bands name logo . It must be to size of the final layout. Clear lettering black opaque all around
    2.Size the original negative into the space allowed for your image.
    3. Leave a space on the bottom for the bands name.
    4. test in the image and get the balance for contrast and density.
    5. test in the line negative so that the type is sharp.

    ( the negative is in the enlarger for the test, obviously)
    (the line negative is taped onto the easel on the underside and an exposure is made without the negative in the head > you must block out the image area for this exposure as well block out the line negative area for the type exposure)
    this method is best done with two enlargers but you can use one if thats all you have.

    Once the image looks good and the type looks good you are ready to rock

    6.I would do the image first and have a paper safe to hold the exposed image sheets
    7. expose 5 or 6 more than the hundred you need do all your dodging and burning as necessary .. MAKE SURE YOU PUT ALL THE EXPOSED PAPER IN THE PAPER SAFE THE SAME WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    8.Now phew!! set up the line negative into position and expose for the line negative..... LOCK THE EASEL ON THE BASEBOARD WITH TAPE SO IT DOES NOT MOVE!!!!!!!!!!!Process and make sure the type is correct and straight to the image. (if it is not correct the easel and rehit one more sheet and process) once you have both image an type lined up nicely . expose the balance of the type exposure......
    The result will be a beautiful dodged and burned image with nice sharp black type..
    Good luck and make some money.. Just remember !!! SAME WAY AND LOCK DOWN THE EASEL

    By the way if you do screw it up please don't call me I am going to be not available to here your curses.

  4. #4

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    I use plastic coated wire 'paper sorters' available at office suppliers to dry my RC prints. The ones I have hold 10 or 12 8x10 prints in the footprint of about one 8x10 and cost about US$5 each.

  5. #5

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    Did that sort of business years ago when SW FB paper was around.
    I used to put upwards of half dozen into the developer at one time,
    shuffle through till done, then down the line.

    When ready for drying they were blotter rolled and ready the next
    day. RC is such stiff stuff I doubt that it could be done as easily
    that way today.

    If I were doing that today I'd meter the developer for a few prints,
    use it dilute for more volume and time, and toss after each small
    batch. Ordinarily I process one tray but with a few to do I'd
    likely use two trays; the second a stop of some sort. Dan



 

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