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  1. #21
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    if you are going to use any soft developer, it should be used prior to the normal contrast developer.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  2. #22
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    mix it [Selectol Soft] yourself or ask Moersch to do it for you; I'm sure he will.
    As said above, in Germany one easily can get Tetenal Centrabrom S.

  3. #23
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkosaric View Post
    It is Fotokemika Emaks paper. I have Ilford filters, and color head in Focomat V35.
    Emaks works wonderfully using the water bath method. Just use a tray of plain water next to your developer tray. Develop the print for a minute, and go to the water bath and submerge the print. This allows highlights to continue developing while developer activity exhausts in the shadows.
    You can go back and forth if you don't get it right on the first attempt.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #24
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    Emaks works wonderfully using the water bath method. Just use a tray of plain water next to your developer tray. Develop the print for a minute, and go to the water bath and submerge the print. This allows highlights to continue developing while developer activity exhausts in the shadows.
    You can go back and forth if you don't get it right on the first attempt.
    I had tested this method, and it is working pretty good. Together with proper exposure (some dodging and burning) - I am getting much better results.

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