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  1. #11

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    You need the alkaline fix TF4 or Kodak Rapid Fix. These are stronger fixes as Tgrain films are harder to fix. Fix that will clear Pan F may not clear T Max no matter how long you soak the film.

    Film developed to the proper contrast for printing on #2 paper all print at almost the same time in my darkroom.

    You are either overexposing, overdeveloping or under fixing or all three.

  2. #12
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal
    Dear c6ho3,

    On my TMX, it's pink, not blue. Maybe you have film from a different factory? I also find that you can actually watch it fade during the second half of fixing (something to do while tray processing<g>).

    Maybe I should have said extremely speculative.

    Neal Wydra
    The anti-halation layer is part of the film base. It comes out in the pre-development soak and it's blue.

    The magenta hue is due to the sensitization dye in the emulsion. Completely different component. Fix your TMY for 10-15 minutes in rapid fixer without hardener and it will come out.

    400TMax and TMY are one and the same film.

  3. #13

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    Dear c6h6o3,

    Thank you for that information. When you say that TMX and TMY are the same film, are you saying they are identical?

    Neal Wydra

  4. #14

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    TMX is Tmax 100
    TMY is Tmax 400

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by joeyk49
    Thanks, Neal...I'm going to give it a closer look in a bit.

    Should I be leavinf the film in fixer for longer than the three to four minutes or so that I usually do for PanF???
    You should test a small piece of undeveloped film in your fixer to determine the clearing time required for the film you are using.

    I define clearing time as the time required in the fixer, with agitation, to make the film transparent. A good rule of thumb is to fix the film for twice the clearing time.

    It is not a good idea to overfix film - you can remove image silver (and thus degrade the image) if you fix too long - especially when fixing in a Rapid fixer.

    Some films achieve transparency in the fixer, but retain a post fixing color cast from residual sensitizing dye. This dye can be removed (after fixing the film) by soaking the film for about 5 minutes in a sodium sufite solution (25 grams per liter of water) or in Hypo Clearing Agent followed by 2 more minutes in the fixer.

    Some workers prefer using a mixture of sodium sulfite and sodium carbonate and water to remove residual dye.

    Different films require different clearing times. Kodak TMAX400 (TMY) requires a much longer clearing time (thus fixing time) than Ilford Pan F.

    T grain films typically fix best in non hardening fixers that contain (or are based on) Ammonium Thiosulfate. Such fixers may or may not be alkaline and include the Rapid Fixers marketed by Kodak, Iford, Agfa, et al.

    Alkaline (and pH neutral) fixers like Photographer's Formulary TF-4, Fine Arts Tabular Grain Fixer, Ole's OF-1 and Suzuki's buffered fixer either contain (or are based on) Ammonium Thiosulfate. In my experience these fixers also work well with Kodak TMAX 400 (TMY) and non tabular grain films as well.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  6. #16
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    Thanks very much guys...

    First chance I get the film goes back into fixer. I estimating about 8-9 minutes on top of my original 4 should about do it...?? I've been using Kodak Rapid fixer, but going by Ilfords recommended times...ooops!(I had them committed to memory..)

    The only issue now is getting the cut negatives into a tank...

  7. #17
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatfrog
    TMX is Tmax 100
    TMY is Tmax 400
    Then waht is TMax3200?.......TMZzz?

  8. #18

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    Joey, No need to get cut negs back into the tank. Just fill a tray with the fixer and drop your negs in. I little gentle agitation for the required time, then wash and leave to dry. I use paper clips bent into "S" shapes to hang cut negs from a line to drip dry.

  9. #19

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    I fix my films in Ilford Rapid fix at the usual 1+4 dillution.
    For traditional films I fix for 3 minutes.
    For T or flat grain films like Tmax, I fix them for 6 minutes. If you just fix for 3 minutes you will end up with big pink streaks everywhere. You won't degrade image with Tmax or Delta after 6 minutes in Ilford rapid fix.

    I don't know what typical times are for the Kodak rapid fixer.

    You should find with Delta and Tmax films that prints times are a bit shorter than with traditional films due to their flat grain technology.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by joeyk49
    Then waht is TMax3200?.......TMZzz?
    TMZ, yes. ;-)

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