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  1. #1
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    Bedeviled by TMax

    I've been printing PanF (35mm) for a few months now, with limited success.

    (I'm a newbie, so I'll take what I get. Just producing discernable images is half the battle for me.)

    But I recently attempted to print a frame from a roll of TMax and found that I wasn't developing anything on my test strips. My usual timing for test strip exposure is about 7 seconds per, until I get close to what I'm looking for. With my lens stopped to f11 or 16, I usually see print times in the 18-35 second range.

    So, I kept increasing times to a max of about 65 seconds! I finally got an image to develop...

    What gives?

    If I remember correctly, the Tmax is ISO400 and the PanF is 50. Is it differences in films, emulsions, layers, densities...or, (what I really think it is) am I messing something up???

  2. #2
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    It has to be that your negatives are really dark. That or something is wrong with your enlarger just when you started on the TMax.

    Just to check, are you using the same paper, fresh developer, and printing the negative to the same amount of magnification as with the PanF?

    Also, take a look at both negs on a light table or at least hold them up to a light. If there is this much difference between the printing times, there would have to be a very large difference in apparent density of the negs. If not, than it is probably evil spirits or something. You may also want to try printing the PanF negs right after having the problem with the Tmax, just to make sure that you are not having a problem with the enlarger that just started happening.

    Assuming that the TMax is indeed much darker than the PanF (It pretty much has to be or we are all going really crazy here) then you need to look at your developing procedures for the TMax and make sure your times, temperatures, dilution and agitation are all correct.

    Good luck,

    Paul.

  3. #3

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    Dear joeyk49,

    In addition to the above, I can only think of one more possiblility and that is are your negatives really pink? If so, re-fix and re-wash to remove the remaining anti-halation layer (this prevents "halos" due to reflection off the back of the film and camera). I really don't know if this is possible, but if they are pink (magenta) enough they might be moving the paper to a high contrast where it is not as fast.

    Keep in mind that the above is really speculative. Much more likely that an enlarger setting, old paper developer or some other such thing is the problem.

    Neal Wydra

  4. #4
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal
    Dear joeyk49,

    If so, re-fix and re-wash to remove the remaining anti-halation layer (this prevents "halos" due to reflection off the back of the film and camera). I really don't know if this is possible, but if they are pink (magenta) enough they might be moving the paper to a high contrast where it is not as fast.
    The magenta has nothing to do with the anti-halation layer, which is blue. It comes out in the pre-development soak.

  5. #5

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    Dear c6ho3,

    On my TMX, it's pink, not blue. Maybe you have film from a different factory? I also find that you can actually watch it fade during the second half of fixing (something to do while tray processing<g>).

    Maybe I should have said extremely speculative.

    Neal Wydra

  6. #6
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    I believe that it does have a magenta hue to it...

    So, I dumpt it back into the tank and refix for a few minutes and rewash?

    Thanks.

    Joe

  7. #7
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    I was mistaken on the first post. The film is 400 TMY not TMX...does it make a difference?

  8. #8

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    Dear Joe,

    TMY also has a magenta anti-halation layer. A slight magenta cast to the negatives is not a problem. It would have to look like a 60M filter before it could cause the problem I mentioned. This is extremely unlikely. If you are confident in your fixing and washing, I would leave it alone (unless, of course the negatives acutally look like a 60M filter<g>). I am 99.99% sure the problems you encountered are almost certainly caused by something else.

    All that said, in the future, a bit longer fix and a wash including hypo clearing agent will help eliminate the magenta cast.

    TMY is a great film. I think you will like it.

    Neal Wydra

  9. #9
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    Thanks, Neal...I'm going to give it a closer look in a bit.

    Should I be leavinf the film in fixer for longer than the three to four minutes or so that I usually do for PanF???

  10. #10
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    Oh, for got to mention something which takes the paper out of the equation...on the same evening, I went back to printing some PanF negs, and the exposure times dropped right back to where I was used to...

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