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  1. #11

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    [QUOTE=Will S]For 120 HP5+ I use 18 min @70 degrees with EI of 200 and semi-stand (90 secs followed by 10 secs of agitation every 3 minutes) Water fix (or very very dilute acid) Make sure you give 5 minutes pre-soak. 17 minutes might be better for you depending on your enlarger/preference for higher/lower contrast.

    Muchas gracias Guillermo,

    I will follow your advice and post the images as soon as I learn to scan (and post).

    Peter
    Photos are made four inches behind the camera

  2. #12

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    So I hear that Pyrocat negs shouldn't be printed on VC papers. Well, that settles that, and now I know why.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by waynecrider
    So I hear that Pyrocat negs shouldn't be printed on VC papers. Well, that settles that, and now I know why.
    I can not agree with that statement. Negatives develped in any staining developers must be developed to a higher contrast if they are to be printed on VC papers than for graded silver papers. What I have found is that for VC papers the 2:2:100 dilution of Pyrocat-HD will give better results than the 1:1:100 dilution. Well, perhaps not better results but development times are much shorter.

    The why of this is fairly complicated but it is primarily due to the fact that the stain causes significant shouldering in the highlights. Depending on film and scene this is a very good thing or a very bad thing. They key is to read enough to understand what is happening so that you can take advantage of the characteristics of this type of developer.

    It is important to bear in mind that if films are not developed to the right contrast for the printing process, whatever that may be, the result will be flat prints lacking in apparent sharpness, regardless of the developer.

    Sandy
    Last edited by sanking; 06-14-2005 at 11:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    [QUOTE=sanking]What I have found is that for VC papers the 2:2:100 dilution of Pyrocat-HD will give better results than the 1:1:100 dilution.

    Is it safe to assume a little over half the developing time using twice the developer strength (i.e. aprox. 10 min. for HP5) ?
    Photos are made four inches behind the camera

  5. #15

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    [QUOTE=Peter Rockstroh]
    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    What I have found is that for VC papers the 2:2:100 dilution of Pyrocat-HD will give better results than the 1:1:100 dilution.

    Is it safe to assume a little over half the developing time using twice the developer strength (i.e. aprox. 10 min. for HP5) ?
    Go to http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/PCat4/pcat4.html

    For VC papers find the time of development for a CI of about .70 using the blue channel analyis. You can use either the 1:1:100 or 2:2:100 dilution but the latter gives shorter development times. For VC papers I would recommend develoment in Pyrocat 2:2:100 for about 13-14 minutes. If you look at the charts this should give you a CI of approximately .70.

    Sandy

  6. #16
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    Wayne
    I use Hutchings Pyro formula as well as D76 for a lot of the work I do, personally and for others.
    I have found from day one that if I have a well exposed , well developed 120 film in D76 my starting pack may be grade 1 or 1 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    For a well exposed, well developed 120 film in Pyro my starting pack may be grade 2 1/2 or 3 , sometimes 3 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    I attribute this to the yellow green stain on the pyro film which has a flattening effect.
    This has always been my observation .

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
    Wayne
    I use Hutchings Pyro formula as well as D76 for a lot of the work I do, personally and for others.
    I have found from day one that if I have a well exposed , well developed 120 film in D76 my starting pack may be grade 1 or 1 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    For a well exposed, well developed 120 film in Pyro my starting pack may be grade 2 1/2 or 3 , sometimes 3 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    I attribute this to the yellow green stain on the pyro film which has a flattening effect.
    This has always been my observation .
    I am just curious why you would not just develop the film with PMK for a time that would calibrate to print with a Grade #2 filter on VC papers? Would this not give you a greater range of latitude in printing than printing with a flat negative that needs a 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 filter for normal contrast scenes?

    Sandy

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
    Wayne
    I use Hutchings Pyro formula as well as D76 for a lot of the work I do, personally and for others.
    I have found from day one that if I have a well exposed , well developed 120 film in D76 my starting pack may be grade 1 or 1 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    For a well exposed, well developed 120 film in Pyro my starting pack may be grade 2 1/2 or 3 , sometimes 3 1/2 depending upon the original scene.
    I attribute this to the yellow green stain on the pyro film which has a flattening effect.
    This has always been my observation .
    Thanks Bob. I can see this perhaps being my case. My Pyrocat neg was a very decent, real middle of the road looking one, being not thin or dense.

  9. #19

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    My experience is that the color of the stain does make a difference. I use a two filter system: 47 blue and 58 green for VC papers. I have the Aristo cold light head that is very blue. Maybe V54 or something. When I used to develop in Rollo Pyro, which has a yellow/green stain, I had to use a time ratio of about 4:1 blue to green. But with Pyrocat, the ratio is almost reversed: 4:1 green to blue. The density of the negatives is about the same on the blue channel of a color densitometer. I think that since the color of the negatives developed in Pyrocat are almost the opposite of the color of the light source, I may get more effective density that I would with another light source, which may account for needing to use more time with the "soft" green filter. I use the 2:2:100 solution and find that the negatives work well for Azo as well. Sandy King may be right that the VC papers need more contrast. This has been my experience as well. His recommended times for different films tested have been close for my purposes. YMMV.

  10. #20

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    I use 2:2:100 for VC. I find a rough 1 1/2 grade difference between VC and graded. I am not sure what effect this extra development has on grain. one would assume then that a ned printing on graded (less developoed) would be finer grained and offer better resolutions and sharpness than one more developed for VC. I aim to print on grade 3 on VC giving the option of graded if I choose. If I go for G2 VC, I will not be able to use G2 graded as it will be too contrasty.

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