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  1. #1

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    Contact proof prints from 120 - do you make them? :)

    Hello friends,

    I just wanted to ask you if you find the practice of contact printing all your 120 negatives useful for your following print making. Do you think that B/W negative scanning could replace actual proofs (actually, that was a blasphemy )? How do you usually make your proofs, on what size and surface type of paper, and how do you choose an exposure time? What points do you consider while evaluating the proofs? Surely this can be an interesting thread for APUG people

    Cheers from Moscow,
    Zhenya

  2. #2
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Proofing: Paterson proof printer on glossy MGIV RC filtered for Grade 2. Exposure is paper's min. time for max. black (which I test for once and then mark it on the box for future reference).

    Evaluating: if I got exposure and development right, I should have Zones III to VII where I expected them, if not, I can see where I went wrong.

    Cheers, Bob.

  3. #3
    Aggie's Avatar
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    I use cheap RC paper to get an idea of which negative I want to print. From there I do work prints, and from those I do the final one on fiber.
    Non Digital Diva

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by eumenius
    Do you think that B/W negative scanning could replace actual proofs (
    With an adequate scanner, proofing negs digitally is easy and useful. The biggest drawback is that futsing with the histogram gives a great scan, but a totally false sense of how to proceed with darkroom work. Adjusting each slider for shadows, midtones and highlights doesn't really equate to the steps one needs to take in the darkroom. The other drawback is that the scan is viewed by transmitted light whereas the print, contact or otherwise, is viewed by reflected light. So it's a mixed bag. I try to do both a scan and, when I get into the darkroom, a contact sheet, and that applies to medium as well as large format negs.
    John Voss

    My Blog

  5. #5
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    I do them on RC paper using a contrast filter of 1/2. I only want to see what detail is in the print, not what it will look like when finished. I do this with all my film.

  6. #6

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    I have been making 120 roll film contact proofs on Azo and Polywarmtone. Many are 6x7cm, 6x9cm and 6x12 cm. I have matted and framed some of them. I currently do not make enlargements.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  7. #7

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    proofs

    I always proof all my negatives with a #1 filter on Oriental VC. It is only good darkroom habit to do this. You will learn from the proofs and have a permanent record of what you are doing. Don't forget to set up some sort of filing system along with this ortherwise you'll go nuts in the future.
    Best, Peter Schrager

  8. #8
    Ole
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    I proof my negatives on 24x30cm (9.5x12") Multigrade RC, with 040Y filtration. The contact print is put in an album with negative sheet on the right, contact print on the left. Then I can see which negatives are worth working on, and find the right negative immediately.

    Since I use transparent negative sheets, I just contact the whole sheet under a sheet of glass to keep it flat. So everything is just as in the album.

    Scanning takes a lot loonger time, and is more difficult to fit in a filing system
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  9. #9
    gandolfi's Avatar
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    what's a filing system?


  10. #10

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    Good Evening, Zhenya,

    I make contact sheets from negatives of any size I shoot. I use 8 1/2 x 11 Kodabrome II RC, #2 grade for all the sheets. The contact sheet not only provides a handy record for filing but also has plenty of space on the back for noting enlargement data for the individual negatives.

    Konical

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