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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky
    I PRESUME you're talking about contact printing - and not enlarging... otherwise what you're talking about is fogging... not burning in.
    That's correct. I've been using it for contact printing only. But, you can use it to do selective flashing with enlarging as well.

  2. #22

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    One very simple little dodge trick I have been using for years with contact sheets is to find a bit of the paper with no neg on it and put a cigarette pack over it before exposure. It leaves a nice neat rectangular area white for writing in the film details.

    David.

  3. #23
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Webb
    I hear an English outfit is making one with Split Fingered L.E.D.s or something. It's all carbon-fiber and stuff.
    .

    I know I am sounding like a trouble maker, but I am under the impression that the Comishioner of Base Ball has outlawed Split Fingered L.E.D.s[/QUOTE]

    Charlie, my friend, let's drive up to Telluride, drink Margaritas, and shoot the last 6 beatniks with your 8x10.
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  4. #24
    hortense's Avatar
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    For enlargeing, dodging using a pencil on 0.0003 inch frosted mylar with a diffuser between the mylar and negative when printing works well for me. For burning just cut the frosted mylar where you need to burn. Both these methods are quite precise when pin registration is used.
    Masked precision flashing can be done on your easil using Orange Opaque material cut out where the flashing is to be done. A piece of 1/8th inch plastic with a piece of frosted mylar taped on top should be used as difusser. Use a spacer between the edges of the plastic/mylar (i.e., the difusser) to provide better difussion.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

  5. #25
    hortense's Avatar
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    dauxLite II

    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser
    Thanks for this reference. I had a look and it seems a pretty good instrument. I had a look at the website but no mention of price that I could find and I note that you suggest it is more like variable contrast flashing than actual burning.

    I, for one, would like to hear more from you on your experiences of using it. Example of your prints and how they were achieved would be even better.

    I had a very difficult to print from a neg of my wife walking through a shady wood. I could get her in full detail but only at the expense of underexposing the trees and sky. Dodging her image precisely while exposing the rest correctly was near impossible.

    It seems that the dauxLite II could cope with this but looking at the website didn't give me a feel for how.

    I have written to dauxLite II for more information about stockists, price etc but anything else you can say will be very gratefully received.

    Thanks

    pentaxuser
    "...variable contrast flashing than actual burning." Correct. I have one that I wouldn't have purched it if not for 1/3rd the price but I fine it very useful.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

  6. #26
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    A clock with an audible click every second helps in timing burns and dodges.

  7. #27
    davetravis's Avatar
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    I know that officially I'm suppose to be making contrast masks for Ilfochromes...but honestly, I've never found the need. If I can't produce a normal contrast print from using my hands, contorted into all kinds of weird shapes and positions, I don't bother with that slide!
    Guess you could say I'm really into hand jobs...

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