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  1. #11
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob F. View Post
    If I need more light to see things in the darkroom, I use a cheap LED based bicycle rear lamp - a fraction of the price of anything from Jobo or Nova etc...

    Cheers, Bob.
    Hi Bob,

    Have you run any fog tests with this light? Curious.

    J

  2. #12
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    Hi Bob,

    Have you run any fog tests with this light? Curious.

    J
    Not really - I don't normally point it at the paper: I just use it to set the enlarger filter settings, to type something in to my darkroom laptop or similar where I need a burst of extra light to see what I am doing.

    I would not expect a problem however as a red LED is a red LED: they emit on a very narrow band well outside the sensitivity of any B&W paper (except panchromatic paper of course). Needs to be an LED one - an old style bike lamp with an incandescent bulb and a red filter is likely to leak white light like a sieve...

    My main (DIY) safelight uses a single very high intensity amber Lumiled LED.

    Cheers, Bob.

  3. #13
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    I have tried it with 200Y 0M as soft grade filter. It works well.
    Now all I have to do is just to turn two knobs fully to the opposite direction when I change the grades, this is much easier.

    The only change is exposure time for the soft grade for highlight, but it didn't matter at all.

    I opened the color module to examine the interior structure and found it doen't seem so weak to be broken or worn out that easily. It it is broken... then it will be a good excuse to buy a splitgrade module.

    Thanks all!

    PS. When I print split grade, I change the filters by turns ie. 0-5, 5-0, 0-5 so on, instead of 0-5, 0-5, 0-5... in other words first paper highlight exposure then shadow exposure, next paper shadow exposure then highlight exposure. I find no difference to my eyes. Is this still right way to do?
    Last edited by butterflydream; 10-27-2006 at 12:50 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: type error

  4. #14
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by butterflydream View Post
    I have tried it with 200Y 0M as soft grade filter. It works well.
    Now all I have to do is just to turn two knobs fully to the opposite direction when I change the grades, this is much easier.

    The only change is exposure time for the soft grade for highlight, but it didn't matter at all.

    I opened the color module to examine the interior structure and found it doen't seem so weak to be broken or worn out that easily. It it is broken... then it will be a good excuse to buy a splitgrade module.

    Thanks all!

    PS. When I print split grade, I change the filters by turns ie. 0-5, 5-0, 0-5 so on, instead of 0-5, 0-5, 0-5... in other words first paper highlight exposure then shadow exposure, next paper shadow exposure then highlight exposure. I find no difference to my eyes. Is this still right way to do?
    Glad that is working for you.

    You are right, there should be no difference in the image with alternating the hard and soft exposures first like you are doing. The only problem for me would be forgetting which is currently dialed in.

  5. #15
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob F. View Post
    Not really - I don't normally point it at the paper: I just use it to set the enlarger filter settings, to type something in to my darkroom laptop or similar where I need a burst of extra light to see what I am doing.

    I would not expect a problem however as a red LED is a red LED: they emit on a very narrow band well outside the sensitivity of any B&W paper (except panchromatic paper of course). Needs to be an LED one - an old style bike lamp with an incandescent bulb and a red filter is likely to leak white light like a sieve...

    My main (DIY) safelight uses a single very high intensity amber Lumiled LED.

    Cheers, Bob.

    Ok, right on, battery powered, and you use it sort of like a flashlight. Cool.

  6. #16
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    Ok, right on, battery powered, and you use it sort of like a flashlight. Cool.
    Yup, that's how I use mine: essentially a paper safe torch (aka flashlight)...

    If you wanted though, two or three of these dotted about the darkroom and powered from a mains power supply (or rechargeable batteries) would make a reasonable safelight system. The one I use cost a quid in a thrift shop, so a pretty cheap option. Only snag is that it has two modes: switch on = flashing, click switch again = steady light, click again = off, so you have to cycle through the modes to use it...

    Cheers, Bob.

  7. #17
    Maine-iac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L Gebhardt View Post
    Have you tried just using full yellow instead of 105Y 12M? It should work the same or better and will be easier.
    Yes, no need to calculate equivalents to filters; just use full magenta and full yellow and derive your test strips accordingly.


    If I was doing this with a color head I would just go back to under the lens filters, as turning the filter wheels would get old very fast. I have never seen a sharpness problem with under the lens filters, so I don't see a downside.
    I've been turning wheels on my Beseler 45 Colorhead for years; I may switch to under-the-lens filters when a)the arthritis in my fingers gets more advanced and/or b)when I wear out the gears on the little wheels that control the dichroic filters. So far, looks as though the arthritis may win the race, but hopefully not for some time yet. This is a long way of saying that I haven't found the inconvenience of turning the wheels a major problem. It's just become part of the routine.

    Larry

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