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  1. #1
    butterflydream's Avatar
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    Splitgrade printing with Color module.

    When I used Durst 805 with ilford multigrade filters, I tried splitgrade printing with satisfiable result.

    Now I have my own darkroom where I bought a Focomat V35 with color module. I'm using the table from Ilford technical data of Multigrade paper - the comparison of multigrade filter and color module setting (m & y combinations to filter grades).

    This is quite a pain for me to switch between grade 0 and grade 5 combinations by turning the knobs. Grade 5 is easier as that's fully turned magenta (0Y 200M), but grade 0 setting (105Y 12M) is difficult in the darkness.

    Is there any tip for this or do you recommend multigrade module or filter holder for ilford filters?

    Please don't recommend splitgrade module, as I can't afford it now.

    TIA

  2. #2
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    I have found splitgrade printing much more convenient when using a single filter at a time, not dual filtering.

    For shadow the papers #5 filter
    For highlight the papers #0 filter

    Ilford lists single filter grades in a pdf sheet

    http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...0201152306.pdf

    for both single filter and dual filters.

    Hope this gets you started,

  3. #3
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Have you tried just using full yellow instead of 105Y 12M? It should work the same or better and will be easier.

    If I was doing this with a color head I would just go back to under the lens filters, as turning the filter wheels would get old very fast. I have never seen a sharpness problem with under the lens filters, so I don't see a downside.
    Last edited by L Gebhardt; 10-26-2006 at 11:29 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  4. #4
    butterflydream's Avatar
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    You mean 200Y/0M instead of 105Y/12M?
    I will try it tomorrow and will come back with result.
    If it works then it will make my life much easier.

    Well, the life of wheels... I will see.

    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Mark Pope's Avatar
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    Ernie,

    that's exactly right. It's what I do with my devere. Works a treat.

    HTH

    Mark
    Mark Pope
    Swindon, Wilts
    UK

    http://www.monomagic.co.uk

  6. #6
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by butterflydream View Post
    You mean 200Y/0M instead of 105Y/12M?
    I will try it tomorrow and will come back with result.
    If it works then it will make my life much easier.

    Well, the life of wheels... I will see.

    Thanks!
    That is what I do too: max yellow or max magenta - no point faffing about setting exact values. The dual filter values are only there to get equal times for the different grades when using a single filter exposure.

    Under the lens filters are an option I wanted to try; I have the holders but the filter gels got damaged and you do not seem to be able to buy just the filter material for under the lens filters. I only want grades 00 and 5 and having to buy a whole new set is ridiculous. Hmmm.... I wonder if there are any suitable optical filters around...

    Cheers, Bob.
    Last edited by Bob F.; 10-26-2006 at 12:41 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #7

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    I agree that 200Y 0M should suffice for the highlight portion of splitgrade printing. However if you are adamant that you want to use the 105Y/12M, why not set the 105Y/12M with the lights on before exposing the paper and then expose the 200M. The order of exposure is not important so make it easier on yourself!

    Dave

  8. #8

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    Why not simply use a safelight to see the settings? It simplifiies processing the print as well! OK this can be done in the dark but it must make life hard.

    pentaxuser

  9. #9

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    HI
    -have the same enlarger and the same issues. It can be solved by using max yellow for highlights, then zeroing the yellow which needs no light to do-just reach up and turn it back to stop position. Then turn the magenta to full on and get the shadow exposure. To make the first workprint just leave it there, expose it for the proper time (magenta) zero it and dial up to max yellow for the chosen exposure time for highlights. You don't need to see any calibration settings. I doubt if the knobs or gears will wear out. It takes only a few twirls of the fingers. If you decide to pick an intermediate setting, get on of those little hand-held lamps that Jobo or others made that are paper safe. Hold it up to the module and check the settings. Works for me. I usually work in a very dim darkroom light. Keeps up the mystery of it all....

  10. #10
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    If I need more light to see things in the darkroom, I use a cheap LED based bicycle rear lamp - a fraction of the price of anything from Jobo or Nova etc...

    Cheers, Bob.

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