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  1. #11
    Sparky's Avatar
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    I dunno. I'll just have to test and test. The whole thing is a bit confusing for me... i.e. - adding magenta for MG paper - am I wrong in assuming that magenta is a double peak in the frequency spectrum (contains short AND long wavelengths with blue and red mixed) - ? Anyway - I'll just have to test.

  2. #12
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    I have Paterson safelights with red domes and 15 W bulbs. Never a problem with Ilford MG (or Ilford Ortho film, for that matter).

  3. #13
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    You will be safe with a red safelight.

    An OC or OA series yellow light allows both green and red through and will fog MG papers, but a red filter allows only red to pass.

    You should have a good 20 mins or so under direct red before fog appears due to any leakage, but it will depend on wattage of the bulb and distance from the filter.

    I suggest a 25 watt bulb, no closer than 1 meter or more distance from the paper, and don't shine it directly on the easel.

    PE

  4. #14
    richard ide's Avatar
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    I have made safelight fixtures by building a box around a 2 tube (40 watts each) 48" fluorescent fixture and using 2 layers of transparent red acrylic for illuminating large areas and never had a problem with VC papers. Distance to paper was about 10 ft.

  5. #15

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    Veryfine (I think that's the name) -- the company that took over Kodak's paper role -- is sensitive to some safelights. I tested a bit under one of those small screw-in lafelight bulbs at about 5 feet for about 5 minutes and got a definite result. It's okay for two minutes or so from first dip in developer to first minute in fixer (and I stand so that my shadow falls over the print in the tray). Under my Kodak amber light I try to keep exposure brief, and under the red glass on my enlarger there's no problem. Seems that the amber lights are the sketchy ones. By the way, the paper is quite good for the price, though it lacks weight.

  6. #16
    Adrian Twiss's Avatar
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    I use an Amber 902 over my enlarger with a 15 watt bulb approx 5 ft from the baseboard. Its connected to my time and switches off during the exposure. I use a durst Labolux over the sink (with the brightness turned down). I have experienced no fogging problems with either Ilford or Kentmere papers throughout a 7 minute processing cycle. I have had problems with Forte Polygrade and use a dark red 906 when printing with this paper. I also anticipate having to use dark red with my latest batch of Adox paper (on the advice of Fotoimpex and Retrophotographic).

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adrian Twiss View Post
    I use an Amber 902 over my enlarger with a 15 watt bulb approx 5 ft from the baseboard. Its connected to my time and switches off during the exposure.
    Adrian. I also have an Ilford 902 which is not connected to my enlarger timer unfortunately. Does your timer incorporate a connection to the 902? Is there a way of connecting it or switch type mechanism to do this?

    I am not particularly au fait with electricity. Mine is a Philips PDT 2020enlarger timer/analyser with a probe and connected through a voltage stabiliser to the enlarger.

    I did previously ask this question and was told that I could only manually switch the 902 off prior to using the probe and then exposing.

    pentaxuser

  8. #18

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    The graphs of paper sensitivity as a function of light wavelength (i.e. its colour) are a guide, but I tried to match some orange LEDs to MG paper and got it wrong even though the maths looked ok. A layer of Rubylith (red film for the graphic arts) makes any safelight safe, but at the expense of red light being harder to work with than orange/brown. On balance, I prefer very bright red to dim orange.

    You can get some idea of the spectrum of a safelight by viewing its reflection via the base of a CD at the angle that gives the "rainbow" effect. I was shocked to see that my orange LEDs had some output in the green to aqua wavelengths, though the intensity of those colours is difficult to judge this way.

    Rubylith will solve your problem unless the light is exceptionally bright.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    I dunno. I'll just have to test and test. The whole thing is a bit confusing for me... i.e. - adding magenta for MG paper - am I wrong in assuming that magenta is a double peak in the frequency spectrum (contains short AND long wavelengths with blue and red mixed) - ? Anyway - I'll just have to test.
    You're not adding magenta: you're subtracting green.

  10. #20
    Les McLean's Avatar
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    I have Ilford 902 safelights for use with Ilford papers and some others but I installed Red Patterson safelights when I found that the 902 fogged Ektalure and Fotospeed papers.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

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