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  1. #11

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    Instead of hosing down your drkrm in large quantities of dektol I'd strongly advise you follow Magnus' advice - use troughs and scroll. Not only does this technique save you from having to mix huge amounts of chemistry (one gallon of working solution should be enough for two 30x40's) and fits in your sink (my troughs are 48"long x 12"wide x 3"deep), it's also the best way to get uniform development and archival washes. Furthermore, the cylinder of the scroll is a lot more rigid in fluid than a giant, flat piece of paper and so A LOT less prone to crimping and other material handling problems. It may seem counter-intuitive to your standard process w/ trays and tongs but having done hundreds of murals this way I can't imagine a more simple process. BTW, a couple 40x50 sheets of homosote and some push pins works well for viewing and drying. Good Luck!

  2. #12

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    We do it in shallow plastic troughs. You really only a gallon's worth of chem at a time. You then scroll the mural paper back and forth lengthwise.

  3. #13
    KenS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    I have three boxes of 42" Forte Polygrade on their way to me now... I wonder how much the 10 000 gallons of dektol's going to cost me! Just excited. I have to figure out how the heck to process this stuff!
    Two of 2x4" (on edge) x 50" 'frames' on the darkroom floor... lined with 6 mil construction plastic stapled over the edge of the 2x4s. one 52" length of alumin(i)um gutter with end caps for stop bath. 1 gallon each of developer and stop then 1 gallon rapid fix. Swab wash-aid with sponge. Wash in bathtub or on the front lawn with hose... if it is a 'nude female' wash on the back lawn at night. 8-)

    Been there... done that but did not get the T-shirt!

    Ken
    Quando omni flunkus moritati (R. Green)

  4. #14

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    One of the Ansel Adams books recommends using a wall paper trough as described. It also recommends washing the print by placing it on lawn and washing with a garden hose. Maybe the fixer is good for the grass.

  5. #15
    Sparky's Avatar
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    I think I'll use my shower - it's probably big enough (just) if I hang the print vertically (somehow)...

    thanks again matt for the ansco idea. I just checked out some prices - I was looking into mixing up my own - digitaltruth has all the chems (except glycin!) for a really decent price - so it looks like I could do it at 1/10th the cost of dektol!

  6. #16

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    When I was in college, I did a class where we printed that big.
    To process them we had some larger PVC Pipe, that was probably 20'' in diameter that was capped on each end and cut in half.
    The school had these wooden supports made to support them.
    To process them I'd roll the paper loosely and put in the chemicals then do a squat thrust kind of movment. I remember it being quite a workout as well as being messy.
    Good Luck!
    Brian
    My "Personal" Photography Website...

    "Photography is an act of Life" - Maine 2006

  7. #17
    Sparky's Avatar
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    Got my paper today! Nice. I'm starting to consider using my HVLP gut for the dev... though it seems that PERHAPS it would be a bad idea from the perspective that atomizing the dev is going to prematurely oxidize it... maybe not.

  8. #18
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Jonathan-

    another big plus to the Ansco is that it goes FOREVER. Until you exhaust the developer by volume, it doesn't go bad, even stored in open trays. I have a NOVA vertical slot processor, and when filled with the Ansco 130, it took something like 60 days for the working strength to go bad, including printing something like 30 or more 8x10's in 1 gallon of the stuff.

  9. #19
    michael9793's Avatar
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    you could go online to Clyde Butchers website and ask him how he did it. he processed 4' x6' prints in trays. and these trays were not that big.

    mike a
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

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