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  1. #21
    Aggie's Avatar
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  2. #22
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    Donald et al,

    Try http://www.photowarehouse.biz in Oxnard, CA

    I never did business with them (as I live in the Netherlands) but I reguraly come across there name when people are looking for film for largeformat camera's (11x14 and upwards).

    Since recently they have above website and it lists high contrast ortho film.

    Also look at the graphic arts materials as I expect that several products would fit the bill.

    Huib.
    http://home.plex.nl/~hsmeets

  3. #23

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    Huib,
    Thanks for the information, I will check into their product line. I imagine the needed material is available, just need to find the source.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  4. #24

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    Jorge,
    Aggie brings up an interesting point. When I head your direction what would you need or would I be able to bring to you. If I can get it past the border, that is. How about Pt in my hub caps? A little developer chemistry in my air cleaner? Wonder if my battery would operate on acetic acid substitued for sulphuric? I could hide some paper in my headliner....oh and by the way, are Mexican jails really as bad as they are reputed to be? Let me know, if you will come visit me on visiting days. What a way to retire...
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  5. #25

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    LOL....thanks Donald and Aggie. Well I think for your first trip you better just handle your own stuff, once you move all the furniture you can hide the stuff there.....

    Yeah, Jails are not a pretty expereince here, but dont worry I would visit and bring you cigarretes. WOuldnt want anything to happen to a fellow APUGer and ULFer.


  6. #26

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    I agree with Jorge's concept of bleaching, but I think there is an easier way. Simply underexpose by about one third to one half, then develop in soft developer over diluted by about 3-4 times. This allows lith film to become almost as variable as continuous tone film and thin is possible. Do not try to use regular strength and short time here or you will get uneven results, about 2-4 minutes depending on temp and very dilute. Test and see what gives the results you looking for.
    Embrace **it! **it. . .just another name for fertilizer. . . Grow baby Grow!

  7. #27

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (dnmilikan @ Mar 4 2003, 01:30 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
    If my tests using paper developer do not give me what I need then I will explore the Kodak material. It is my understanding that Kodak has split the graphics materials off from the photographic materials operation. Thus it may be more difficult for me to get it. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    I purchase lith film regularly from Agfa and sometimes Kodak, if I may be assistance to you please let me know. And I also have never heard of dilute dektol giving strong lith film development. The rapid acces or lith works well. BUT if you must use dektol (I have sometimes when I have only one line negative to do and do not want to set up the rapid access) then let it sit in the developer at least 5 minutes. That is what it takes for the black to get completely rich and uniform.
    Embrace **it! **it. . .just another name for fertilizer. . . Grow baby Grow!

  8. #28

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    The instances in which I used dilute Dektol in conjunction with half-tone film is to give me a low contrast unsharp mask (positive of my camera negative) that I then print in register with my camera negative. The net result is to increase apparent sharpness on the print due to edge effects and to compress the contrast range of the camera negative by an amount equal to the net peak density of the mask produced. I then use additionally masking to expand the local contrast of either/both the highlight or shadow portions of the print which are located on the "toe" or "shoulder" where the slope is not nearly as pronounced as the straight line portion of the characteristic curve.

    I have also used A-B developer at times when I want higher contrast from my masks. I have samples of new lith film coming to me for evaluation in separation masking of the camera negative into three distinct density ranges so that I may print these ranges (shadow, midtone, and highlight) at the appropriate contrast setting using variable contrast materials. In other words, I could print the shadow and highlight values at a grade 5 setting (for instance) and the midtones at a grade 1.5 (for instance). The tonal separation on the print would then be more straight line and this would quite effectively bypass the limitations of the characteristic curve of both the camera film and the printing paper.

    Any thoughts that you may have regarding this process would certainly be welcome.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  9. #29

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    Okay, Mr. Milikan, ***biting lip like a child*** I have never heard the term "grade n setting". Obviously I missed another basic. If convenient would you explain. I am hoping I know of the concept with different terminology. Thanks.
    Embrace **it! **it. . .just another name for fertilizer. . . Grow baby Grow!

  10. #30

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    Oh, my gosh, your name is Donald Miller, not Mr. Milikan. Excuse me&#33; I must say though, your avatar makes me feel that I should be behaving respectfully when I type to you. Besides you seem to really know your stuff, that in and of itself deems respect. duh, well it is my night to feel stupid. I see you sign lots of your posts. Well I should have noticed sooner.
    Embrace **it! **it. . .just another name for fertilizer. . . Grow baby Grow!

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