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  1. #11
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    For the same enlargement factor, at the same aperture, any lens of any focal length will produce the same exposure time. That's not the issue, though you might want a longer lens if your current lens doesn't cover the format adequately (i.e., if you're getting dark or unsharp corners).

    I'd agree with those who say there is nothing unusual about your results, the neg is probably thin and will need a higher contrast grade, and use a smaller aperture to increase exposure time. Indeed, it's not optimal, but it sounds like the print isn't at the stage where diffraction is anywhere close to the main problem. When it gets to that stage, then you might worry about enlarging at the optimal aperture of the enlarging lens, presuming the enlarger is aligned properly.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  2. #12

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    OK, David...on the lens size question. I'm getting no falloff in the corners or edges. My 80mm goes to f22 but my 135mm goes to f45...hmm..

    I guess it's f22, then. I'm just not hitting a good black and good white on this neg. I know I'm trying to salvage a pig's ear here, but I wish I could make a slightly more extreme contrast, maybe with a separate gr 5 filter, rather than the dichroic. I figure if I can put the time in to get a pretty decent print, I can remember this info and have a good base to work from next time I'm faced with a neg like this...

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by PVia View Post
    Hi all...

    First, thanks to everyone for helping me along so far in my first printing endeavors...

    I've printed a few negs with good contrast successfully at grades 3-3.5 (dual filtration dichroic head), at f11 for 6-7 sec with my head on the LOW light setting. I'm printing small enlargements from 6x7 negs on 5x7 Ilford VC RC Satin paper.

    When making my test strips today for a flat negative, I tried using f16 to lengthen my exposure times and print a test strip from 2-10 seconds with grade 0. (I was entertaining the idea of trying some sort of split grade method). The test strips were almost all black. Tried grade 1, very dark and muddy, basically unusable.

    I kept experimenting (mindlessly, I might add) and using my instincts just to see what would happen. I got a decent print but still very middling contrast by exposing 2 sec at grade 3.5 and 4 sec at gr 5 all at f16.

    Now, regardless of my lame methods and results, I am still wondering about these exposure times. I mean, to get into the 10-20sec range I'd have to stop down to f22...and I'm already set to LOW light on my head.

    What am I doing wrong?

    PS...paper and chems are all fresh, just bought and mixed fresh at the session. Temps for all chems were fine as well...
    If you're switching grades make sure you're using the filtration settings that do not result in a change in sensitivity. This is usually given as a table with your paper - might be called the "dual filtration" settings.

    Oh wait, you said that already. Dunno then.
    The universe is a haunted house. -Coil
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  4. #14
    glbeas's Avatar
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    You can dial in equal amounts of all three colors on your dichroic to create neutral density then add however much more to the appropriate colors to get the desired contrast grade.
    Gary Beasley

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by PVia View Post
    OK, David...on the lens size question.
    I'm getting no falloff in the corners or edges.
    My 80mm goes to f22 but my 135mm goes to f45...hmm..
    L

    I'd think easy enough to test. With the 135mm the
    enlarger will need to be cranked up quite a bit. Likely
    has to do with the inverse law concerning distance of
    projection. I like working with a longer lens when making
    small prints; more clearance under the head. Dan

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by PVia View Post
    OK, David...on the lens size question. I'm getting no falloff in the corners or edges. My 80mm goes to f22 but my 135mm goes to f45...hmm..

    I guess it's f22, then. I'm just not hitting a good black and good white on this neg. I know I'm trying to salvage a pig's ear here, but I wish I could make a slightly more extreme contrast, maybe with a separate gr 5 filter, rather than the dichroic. I figure if I can put the time in to get a pretty decent print, I can remember this info and have a good base to work from next time I'm faced with a neg like this...
    I suggest trying the 135mm at f45. If that gives you times that allow you to do some test strips (ranging from too-light to too-dark) then you will be better able to get a handle on the true quality of the negative because you will be able to select a close-to-optimum exposure. Then you can home in on a contrast grade.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    I like working with a longer lens when making
    small prints; more clearance under the head. Dan
    Yes...I could hardly get enough clearance for the grain magnifier!

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by glbeas View Post
    You can dial in equal amounts of all three colors on your dichroic to create neutral density then add however much more to the appropriate colors to get the desired contrast grade.
    So, Gary...if I dial in all 3 at 25, and the chart says to use 15Y 25M, it would be 25C, 40Y, 50M ?

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by john_s View Post
    I suggest trying the 135mm at f45. If that gives you times that allow you to do some test strips (ranging from too-light to too-dark) then you will be better able to get a handle on the true quality of the negative because you will be able to select a close-to-optimum exposure. Then you can home in on a contrast grade.
    This sounds like a great idea...I'll try that this week.

    Thanks!

  10. #20
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PVia View Post
    So, Gary...if I dial in all 3 at 25, and the chart says to use 15Y 25M, it would be 25C, 40Y, 50M ?
    You got it. You might need more than 25 ND added but its hard to tell with print materials that are not panchromatic.
    Gary Beasley

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