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  1. #1

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    Stability of Rosco Filters for Diffusion Enlarging?

    I see where some people use Rosco filters for enlarging.

    What are people's experience using Rosco filters, and how long do they stand up? How stable are they, before they begin to vary in contrast filtration? Put another way, what are their fading characteristics?

    How consistent are they sheet to sheet? For example, if one purchases another sheet down the road, can they expect to get the same contrast they did when starting to use the previous sheet? If stored in a dark area, do they retain their color well?

    I have a Zone VI 8x10 type ii non variable contrast head, and i was thinking of using Rosco filters for VC printing. I hesitate to think what regular acetate filters would cost of an 8x10 head.

  2. #2
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Rosco colors are made to use on hot lights. I have found the cine colors (which is what I use in my 5x7 diffusion enlarger) to be very stable under conditions far more demanding (clipped on to 1.2 to 6k HMI's that I use for work) than in a diffusion enlarger . The theatrical "party" colors are not nearly as robust.

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    On the other hand, Ilford MG filters have neutral density built into them to keep exposure times the same from grade 0-3.5 and you just add one stop from 4-5.

    If you don't want to get 10x10" filters, you could filter under the lens.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #4
    Steve Sherman's Avatar
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    Rosco Filters

    I have longed used Rosco deep blue, #68 and a med deep green, the number escapes me now. I use these filters as an "additive" form of light to effect contrast with Multi-contrast papers. The deep blue effecting high contrast and the green used for low contrast.

    THe beauty of this method is printing times do not become inordinately long especially with the green, low contrast layer.

    Using these two filters you can print different parts of the image to different contrast levels. An inexpensive answer to a variable contrast cold light head.

    Cheers!
    Real Photographs are Born Wet !
    http://www.steve-sherman.com

  5. #5

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    Whats the point of worrying? A sheet of 24x20 is something like $6 or $7. You can check the Rosco site for cut offs for each filter number. They need to be pretty constant since so many are so similar.

  6. #6
    lee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Sherman View Post
    I have longed used Rosco deep blue, #68 and a med deep green, the number escapes me now. I use these filters as an "additive" form of light to effect contrast with Multi-contrast papers. The deep blue effecting high contrast and the green used for low contrast.

    THe beauty of this method is printing times do not become inordinately long especially with the green, low contrast layer.

    Using these two filters you can print different parts of the image to different contrast levels. An inexpensive answer to a variable contrast cold light head.

    Cheers!
    I also use the blue and green filters to split print with and they are the Rosco filters. Because of some of the negs I make and Pyrocat HD developer the blue filter exposure can be long. (I make pretty thick negs). I use this combo on a Durst 138s with condensers. I like it.

    lee\c

  7. #7
    Christopher Nisperos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee View Post
    I also use the blue and green filters to split print with and they are the Rosco filters.....
    lee\c
    Totally on thread but off subject ...

    It struck me as funny to see the header for this thread on the homepage, "Rosco filters" by lee .. reminds me of something like: "Nikon" by Canon...

    Sorry for the intrusion...

    Christopher



 

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