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  1. #1
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Silverprint washer questions

    I just received a Silverprint print washer, but it has no instructions. Forgive me if this sounds silly. I'm really just starting out with the fiber paper adventure.

    There are dimples on one side of the panels that go in the slots. I assume that the paper goes in with the emulsion facing the dimples or vice versa - or does it not matter?

    There is a long perspex stick with a hand shape at one end. Presumably this is just to poke the prints around in the washer to help with the flow of water over the prints?

    Are there any guidelines as to how much pressure the water input should have?

    Just wanted to clear this up. I think I have figured out the plumbing parts
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
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  2. #2

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    I don't have the same printwasher but the basics are:

    Maintain a continuous flow of clean water over the paper for a period of time. The flow rate is debatable, up to a gallon/minute and the time duration is also debatable, up to 1 hour - after hypo clearing treatment.

    I do the full duration and flow rate for those special prints. Water pressure is not an issue.

    Rotating the prints during the wash period gives more complete results, especially if your going to tone the prints afterwards. I rotate the prints 90 deg. every 15 min. for one complete rotation after 1 hour.

    Paul
    Last edited by panastasia; 04-04-2008 at 01:35 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  3. #3

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    fill it with water before putting prints into it.
    The rough side of the plexi stops prints sticking to it.
    I rotate prints every 15 mins. That means end to end once, then top to bottom once and then end to end again. That means all bits of the print get the same washing.
    The paddle is for retrieving prints. Smaller prints which you can't grab from the top of the washer need to be got out somehow. Put the paddle end down the non emulsion side of print to do that.
    Remove prints while washer is still full of water because if you empty it first they will stick to sides and won't pull out.
    And if you use the dump facility, start it slowly or you risk getting sploshed.

    only small amount of input pressure is required. You shouldn't need to turn tap up more than just past start. Of course this depends on your tap pressure.

  4. #4

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    I have heard one report somewhere, that if the emulsion is facing the dimples, it can show up in the toning process as dots on the print but I have never seen this happen. It may have been caused by residue left in the washer from previous prints or over washing but I wouldn't worry about it unless it actually happens and then if it does you'll know why.

  5. #5
    Ian Leake's Avatar
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    The rough side creates greater turbulence which, according to the Silverprint tests when they were designed, washes the prints more effectively.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Leake View Post
    The rough side creates greater turbulence which, according to the Silverprint tests when they were designed, washes the prints more effectively.
    Well its the paper side of the print which absorbs most chemicals. The emulsion is very thin by comparison but may not wash out as quickly as paper of the same thickness. So if I were guessing, which I am, I would say its the paper side which needs the most washing since its so much thicker than the emulsion and would therefore benefit from being next to the rough side of the plexi. However, since I do what I do, which is my rotation sequence, the paper side gets half hour and the emulsion side gets a half hour.

  7. #7
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your informative replies. I think I can safely get started now
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

  8. #8

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    Maybe worth looking at the Silverprint website. Martin Reed tested, I think, a Nova washer way back and his article makes very interesting reading. He mentions the dimple effect and lots of other things that seemed to blow away the contention that archival standard can only be achieved by draining a Severn Trent reservoir and your bank balance along with it if you are on a meter.

    pentaxuser

  9. #9
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Thanks to everyone who replied I have sorted it all out for now and it seems to work fine.
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

  10. #10
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    Maybe worth looking at the Silverprint website. Martin Reed tested, I think, a Nova washer way back and his article makes very interesting reading. He mentions the dimple effect and lots of other things that seemed to blow away the contention that archival standard can only be achieved by draining a Severn Trent reservoir and your bank balance along with it if you are on a meter.

    pentaxuser
    I have downloaded this. Looks useful. Thanks.
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

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