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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Beseler included a heat absorbing glass with it's 45 series of enlargers though I never used it. Never seemed to need it.

  2. #12

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    Oct 2004
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    I really appreciate all of your replies, it's given me a lot to think about.
    My friend had a very nice D6 and a stash of PH211 bulbs. He often printed dense negatives and his times were often around 1 full minute if not longer.
    I remember thinking that my times were definitely under a minute almost always.

    I thought of installing a fan (or hacking one in) but decided that if i've gone this long without one then it's probably not worth it though.
    If I were using the PH213 though i'd definitely work something out.

    I like the dimmer suggestion and I may just go that route. I can live with a loss of 1/2 stop (or even 1 stop).
    I was just thinking right before I read jfish's post that heat absorbing glass might be nice with a PH213. You could probably cut the glass to fit the filter holder, at least on my old-style head.

  3. #13
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Dec 2006
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    From the manual for the D5...Under the title, "Lamp Replacement/Condenser Lamphouse".

    "...For increased light output, 150 watt No.212 or 250 watt No.213 lamps are available...When using these wattage lamps, the use of heat absorbing glass is essential, and the Omega exhaust blower is recommended."

    my guess is to protect your negatives from the heat.

    Vaughn
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  4. #14
    bowzart's Avatar
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    I frequently used the 213 bulb in my D3V over a very long period of time; many years. I didn't go through that many bulbs, either. I have not noticed a great deal of shift and/or deterioration, even (especially) when printing color. I made a practice of giving all of my bulbs unique names and recording the particular bulb on my printing data. I changed bulbs in and out a great deal, according to the project I happened to be working on.

    The 213 is very useful in making large prints. While it does generate more heat, it is not on as long, so I suppose it balances out somewhat. Since I would start printing a particular negative and print through to the finish, then set that negative aside until I had occasion to print it again, I suspect that whatever change had occurred in the bulb would be relatively insignificant in comparison to the changed emulsion characteristics with new paper.

    I always used a heat absorbing glass with this setup. Negative "pop" where the negative heats up and changes its shape resulting in a change of focus is more likely to occur without a heat absorbing glass. That drives me nuts. When making smaller b&w prints, I would normally use a 212, although I also might use a 211. Whenever a bulb is changed, changes in the print are inevitable.

    Using a dimmer will shift the color; lower voltage will go redder. This will not only influence color prints but prints using vc filters, and most likely, graded papers as well.

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