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  1. #21

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    Bleach and Redevelop

    Couldn't really find the POSTwe had up 2 days ago. But last nite I used bleach and redevlopment on some regular negatives and one pyro neg. Everything worked really well as I'm about to print one of the negs right now. This is really a big thank you to everyone who posted the information. The re-development in Pyrocat seems to give a nice glow. The process isn't hard ;just start with one neg. at a time to get the hang of it. Thanks again
    Peter

  2. #22
    James Bleifus's Avatar
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    Hi Everyone,

    After bleaching and redevelopin should I refix or do I just was the negs normally?

    Cheers,

    James

  3. #23
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruby
    I messed something up on a close up shot of some leaves this fall. My 4 x 5 neg is so light I almost didn't think I had anything at all.

    So far, I've printed it with my grade 5 filter and I still can't seem to get much visual interest out of the pic. My guess is that If I could get more contrast there would be hope. Is there anything in the developing of the paper or some sort of toning that I might try?

    Due to the thin neg, there really isn't any seperation of tones. Thanks in advance.
    Try this device: www.salzgeber.at/disc/index.html
    Diane

    Halak 41

  4. #24
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by James M. Bleifus
    After bleaching and redevelopin should I refix or do I just was the negs normally?
    In theory, there shouldn't be any undeveloped halide to fix away.

    In practice, I'd be a lot more comfortable refixing. However, if you will or might be doing multiple bleach-redevelop cycles to build up stain density, you could and probably should leave fixing for the end.

    Also be aware that, since each cycle with pyro tans (hardens) the emulsion more, washing time will need to be extended after final fixing; I'd make a WAG recommendation that you at least double your usual washing after this kind of treatment.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  5. #25

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    Help!!!
    I just developed my first (with developer, rather than with coffee) roll of Arista premium 100 using all Arista chems. All the frames were pretty much transparent and can't read the edge writing at all. Develop temp/time a approx 68 deg. for 7 min. (as per instructions on container I am guessing they are underdeveloped. There is nothing of value to save, per say. Film and chems are approx 2 years old (I got a late start lol). Is the age of the stuff the prob or is it my experience/ lack there of. I did some devel. and printing 30 years ago and all turned out ok then.
    I have found some good info in all the threads, just not for this.
    Thanks guys and gals.

  6. #26
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Are the original chemicals liquid or powder? If liquid, the developer might have expired. If powder, how did the developer look before you mixed it up?

    Is there any chance that you put the film in the fixer before it went into the developer, or that you missed the developer entirely? If so, that would certainly explain it
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #27

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    Original chemicals are liquid, 2 years old and never opened, however storage area was subject to temps ranged from 70ish(?) deg to just above freezing in my pantry (think I just figured it out, bad storage). I was very careful to keep dev and fix separate. A little more info: some frames do show good detail and some look nealy blank. I'm 99% sure I did the chems in proper order. The camera was either a Nikon N70 or N60, both cameras were used on the same trip with both color and B&W film. Lab processed color was beautiful, so I rule out cameras. Possibly my DA and old chems. Just can't figure out how half the strip seems to be good (not really dark) and the other half really thin. Chemicals did have a strong smell tho, not overpowering but not weak.
    Digital music like digital photography will never come close to vinyl and film, they lack the warmth and depth. Kinda like a hooker, feels good but cold and distant.

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