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It doesn't sound as if you'll have sensitivity problems Dave! If you do, you can measure contrast either with the lens wide open and/or at a smaller print size. Then go to the desired magnification and aperture and with the meter set to the contrast grade you established previously, meter a shadow. Increase the exposure until the LED moves to the shadow end of the scale, and that's your exposure.
Thanks for your order, I'll get that out as soon as I can.
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I teach a modified f-stop method to find base exposure. We don't have f/stop timers but a chart is posted. I resisted teaching the technique as the enlarger optics were 3 element with poor performance wide open. However, the f/stop method was easier for students to find the basic exposure. After I changed how I taught exposure I replaced 3 element Belar lenses with improved Nikkor glass. You make do with what you got in a community DR.
Last edited by Richard Jepsen; 01-11-2012 at 07:42 PM. Click to view previous post history.
RJ
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 Originally Posted by Keith Tapscott.
One of the reasons I started this thread Brad. I do find the concept of f/stop timing interesting and I wanted to read the views and opinions of other darkroom users whether they find the use of a dedicated f/stop timer to be worthwhile compared to using a regular enlarger timer.
this may help
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