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  1. #21
    RJS
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    You might try contacting Aristo; if the tube you are using is made by them for photographic use it certainly should cover 8X10 very nicely. If it is made for some other purpose you are in uncharted water! Given it is the correct tube, all those I am familiar with wind back and forth to make a pattern to cover the required area, then perhaps it is not working correctly somehow - blackened portions internally? That size MUST cover 8X10 reasonably well if it is working properly, pretty much regardless of what you have it sitting on (an old camera or whatever would not effect the light striking the negative. Something very strange here!

  2. #22
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    I built a very big enlarger from a process camera and used 10 48" flourescent tubes as a light source.
    Wow! What size negatives were you enlarging?

    And the OP, with a 50-inch pegboard vacuum easel, how are you developing the exposed paper? In a kiddie pool? Just kidding, but I'm honestly wondering.
    f/22 and be there.

  3. #23
    richard ide's Avatar
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    I could enlarge negatives up to 30 x 48. My vacuum easel was 78 x 192. I did a lot of separation positive film for silk screen printing. Anything up to 48" wide went through a processor. Over 48" was hand processed.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  4. #24

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    Thanks folks,
    there is plenty of coverage of the negative - an inch extra on all sides. I contacted aristo and they told me that the bulb I have was "sold to individuals who wanted to experiment with a warm light for b/w prints" so I assume it should at least attempt to be even? The bulb is pretty tightly packed coils that cover all the way to the edges of the housing. What type of material would one use as reflective to put in the housing? chrome tape, or similar? I'll give a shot with using film to make a center filter if the reflective material in the housing doesn't help. Bettersense, I use the scroll method for processing prints in troughs about 52"x10"x5", it's a piece of cake.
    thanks again for thinking this problem through!
    regards
    Erik

  5. #25
    jp80874's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik L View Post
    Guys, thanks for putting the thinking caps on ....I'm trying to avoid buying a new bulb if there is a fix. I would hate to buy a new bulb and have the same situation with fall off. ...regards
    erik
    Erik,

    If you do consider buying a new or used bulb this may help. Several years ago Michael Mutmansky took a normal 5x7 Durst 138S and converted it to 8x10 using an Aristo 12x12 cold light. He was concerned about fall off of the 8x10 light and felt any fall off on the 1212 would be beyond the 8x10 negative. When he changed formats I bought the enlarger from him and have been very happy with the even light obtained. There are a couple of pictures of the unit in my gallery. I use a 300mm Rodagon and only enlarge to 20x24 though there is room to go much larger either by lowering the table or switching to the 240mm Rodagon. I haven’t wanted to wrestle with larger paper in a high sink with a 7' 2" ceiling. The floor awaits that effort, but I am making 7x17 contact prints instead now.

    John Powers

  6. #26
    RJS
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    Depending on the housing I would think white paint sprayed very evenly might be a good choice. You could even experiment with different shades of white if you don't like the contrast from the 'warm' tube. There would seem to be infinite possibilities!

  7. #27

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    It sounds like you have to work on your lamphouse a bit. Spacing it back another inch or so may help. Be sure to check the alignment. If you really need a center filter, you might try making one that fits above the negative in an unfocused area (like just below the lamp). You could probably print a circular gradient on inkjet transparency film that would work.

  8. #28
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Here is a picture showing my 8x10 Aristo mounting. My enlarger came with an adapter plate that was about 3/4 inch thick. I was able to position the diffuser closer to the negative by placing the diffuser UNDER the adapter plate. As seen in this 'After' picture.
    John makes a good point on lamp size. In fact, mine is the 1414 model (14" across).

  9. #29

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    Thanks guys,
    Ic-racer, I could move my diffuser directly on the glass carrier which would put it about 3/4 inch closer than it is now. Is that what you are suggesting?
    thanks again guys for the help
    erik

  10. #30
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik L View Post
    Thanks guys,
    Ic-racer, I could move my diffuser directly on the glass carrier which would put it about 3/4 inch closer than it is now. Is that what you are suggesting?
    thanks again guys for the help
    erik
    It should. I have actually been considering even moving the whole lamp closer (by making a thinner adapter).
    Mine unit was custom built for wall projection (by the prior owner). So a thin metal adapter plate would not have held up to the sideways weight of the Aristo head.

    A point on the negative in the middle gets light from all directions besides just straight above. A point on the edge of the negative only gets light from straight above and one direction. By having the diffuser extend beyond the edge of the negative, and moving the diffuser closer, the edge falloff can be minimized.

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