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  1. #11
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Depending on the nature of the footage and the stability of the projected image, I would seriously consider photographing a projection. By using 1/8 to 1/2 second exposure time, you will get an average of several frames. It might be worth a try.
    f/22 and be there.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
    Depending on the nature of the footage and the stability of the projected image, I would seriously consider photographing a projection. By using 1/8 to 1/2 second exposure time, you will get an average of several frames. It might be worth a try.
    I tried this many years ago, with acceptable results, allowing for the inevitable issues of grain and general lack of sharpness of 8mm film. I'd certainly try this route...and, dare I say it, it might just be more economical and satisfactory to use a digital camera for once(they have their uses!).

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredrik Sandstrom View Post

    In either case, don't expect great results. The image area on 8mm film is tiny: about 1/32 of that of 35mm film. You will get quite visible grain, even on prints of moderate size. Furthermore, individual frames of movie film often show motion blur which is not objectionable when viewing the movie, but can be an issue here. The perceived amount of detail in the picture is much greater when the frames are shown in rapid succession, as intended, than when you pick out one still.
    When I was still working and EK was processing , the largest
    they would do from any movie film was approx 2 ¼ X 3 ¼
    and the results were not always that good due to all the reasons posted above.

    Francis in VT

  4. #14
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    Given the content would not keeping it as a film through telecine be more appropriate? It sounds like a very difficult project and the goal is to preserve a memory authentically, not technically.

  5. #15
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    Since it is B&W you could make a mask for your negative carrier to fit the 8mm and print directly on Harmon direct positive paper which is a Ilford product.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironage View Post
    Since it is B&W (...)
    It's color. I thought about projecting it on a piece of 70x115mm film cut from a Fuji CDU-II roll and developing in C-41.

  7. #17

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    you can get a positive on regular paper by reversal processing the paper--that way you can play with the variable contrast papers or mix contrast grades....

    OR...you can make a paper negative and contact print that---that way you'll have TWO chances to fix the contrast when using VC papers.


    you WILL need a GOOD lens for this--get a movie camera lens taking lens and use one of those--that should work pretty good for what you want--plus the movie camera lenses are pretty cheap compared to a minox lens.....you want a lens designed for HIGH magnifications

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