Well, now the colorhead doesn't seem to be lighting the main lamp. The fan spins, the lamp appears fine, and the front WHITE LIGHT and DIFF lights work, but the main lamp doesn't light. I'm positive the lamp was lighting earlier. Is there a trick to it, or do I have a bad connection somewhere?
Check to make sure that the chrome lever on the side of the colorhead is pulled towards you. If the lever is back for white light focusing and left there after focusing the enlarger bulb wont come on until you pull the lever forward. It saves you from making a white light exposure. It's saved me lots of color paper!
Darkroom Equipment : 2X Beseler 23C Color Enlargers, Jobo ATL-1, Jobo CPE-2 Plus and Kreonite ProMate 16" Roller Transport Processor
Originally Posted by Greg Davis
I could shoot digital and email the image to a lab and get a digital C-print. But I want to shoot and print in my darkroom. I was born in the wrong century.
Both the Omega and the Beseler are excellent enlargers and are the subject of frequent "religious wars." My personal feeling is that the Beseler is a bit easier to use, but the Omega may be a bit more rugged. These issues aren't great enough top make a whole lot of difference. I use the dual dichro in diffusion mode, but it is easy enough to set it up for condenser mode. I don't know what difference it makes in the print with this equipment. I use the dual dichro head for contrast adjustment, and it is easy to get the exact contrast you need that way. The down side is that the exposure may need adjustment as you change contrast. This is not really much of a problem. (There are listings for combined yellow and magenta filtration for each grade that keep the exposure more or less constant. But these may still need exposure adjustments for in between grades or for papers by different manufacturers than that for which they were originally calculated.) I also have a Beseler 35 enlarger with a dichro head. Interestingly, I use Ilford filters below the lens on that one, using the dichro head just to tweak the contrast adjustment. It just seems to work better that way on the smaller machine. Sometimes I have used the dual dichro the same way, placing fixed filters above the lens in the filter drawer. Below the lens filters are difficult on the larger machine. There are a lot of ways of doing it. They all work.
Yes, there is a trick to it. Beseler wants to protect you against forgetting to move the lever from white light to filtered. If you focus with the white light setting and then turn off the lamp power, forgetting to move the lever, the lamp will not light when you attempt a timed exposure. If you move the lever back then the lamp will light, or it is supposed to do so. On my 23C this circuit fails most of the time and the lamp will not light. Flipping the lever a few times with more force usually but not always resets the "safety" feature.
I leave the lever set to filtered light all the time because the lamp always comes on when it is powered either for focusing or for timed exposures. There is enough light in the filtered position to focus using my grain magnifier. If I do need more light I set the filtration to zero. Only Beseler knows why they decided to make an enlarger that is smarter than the photographer.
By denying the facts, any paradox can be sustained--Galileo
I never did get the colorhead to come back on after switching it to "white light".
So I removed it and it looks like there was a sheet metal top that originally went on top and held the incandescent bulb. I don't have it but it looks like to convert the enlarger to regular incandescent all I need to do is get a socket and a bulb (already have a bulb) and lower it down into the top of the lamp housing. The only matter is how far down to suspend it. Being a diffusion enlarger I guess it probably doesn't matter exactly where the bulb goes.