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  1. #11
    Martin Aislabie's Avatar
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    If you are using FB paper, there is another difficulty

    It can change shape slightly during processing and drying - so while you had nice even borders with unexposed paper the print may not be quite right.

    It doesn't need to be out by much if you have an eye for such details

    With RC you are fine - it a very stable base.

    Martin

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwdake View Post
    Jon Shiu is spot on with his advice.
    The instructions that come with Saunders 4 blade easels say to slide the paper all the way to the left once in the slot.
    Cool. Thanks for this - I've never seen the instruction book for a Saunders easel, so this is good to know.

  3. #13
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    I am not sure which model you are referring to. The one where you just slide the blades is not very rugged in my experience, so I got the one where you have to turn the big black knobs. Mine goes out of adjustment all the time for some reason. So much so that once when I knew I had the blades adjusted perfectly square I drew permanent black lines on the easel bed to check the blades by and reset the blades by when they go out again.
    Dennis

  4. #14
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Along with getting even borders you need to have all the blades at right angles.

    You can self-align and equal-border an easel rather easily:

    1. Align the top blade so it is exactly parallel to the top slot
    2. Take a sheet of unprocessed photographic paper and use the back of the sheet for markings - make a faint tick-mark on the long side at the width of the border you want. Using the photographic paper you will be printing on compensates for any deviations in the size of the paper - it is always a bit off. Paper will change size in processing, if you set the borders with an unprocessed sheet the borders will shrink along with the paper and remain the right relative size.
    3. Insert the paper in the slot, tick mark on the slot side, sliding it to the left
    4. Move the top blade to the tick mark
    5. Make a line on the paper using the top blade as a ruler
    6. Rotate the paper 90 degrees CCW and slide it into the slot
    7. Bring the left blade to the ruled line on the back of the paper, align the blade to the line if it is at an angle to it
    8. Make another ruled line using the top blade of the easel
    9. Rotate the paper again 90 degrees CCW, set the position of the bottom blade, aligning it if needed
    10. Rotate the paper 180 degrees and align the right blade of the easel
    11. If you like you can apply four strips of masking tape at the periphery of base, inside the outer frame, and make marks so you can set the blades back to this position


    If you need asymetric borders you can use the line ruled against the top edge for alignment of the left blade and then move the blade and mark a second line at the short-edge margin position to be used for aligning the right blade.

    I find the single-size "Speed Ez-els" to be the most convenient if all I need are "good-enough" equal 1/8" borders on standard paper sizes.
    Last edited by Nicholas Lindan; 08-31-2009 at 12:09 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  5. #15
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
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    I've noticed with the Saunders that the top border tends to be too big due to the slot depth. Also, when adjusting the blades, lift the frame a bit so that the blades don't drag.

    Jon
    Mendocino Coast Black and White Photography: www.jonshiu.com

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