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Thread: Flashing Paper

  1. #31
    mobtown_4x5's Avatar
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    Don-

    Thanks for the informative reply to my side question (just got back in town from sunny Fla. and catching up on my APUG)

    -Matt

  2. #32
    gainer's Avatar
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    I have an easel densitometer that I use, with proper calibration, to set the exposure for each negative. I can set it to read Zones instead of density. I designed and built it myself, so don't ask where you can buy one. Along with this contraption, I have an adjustable light source that is wired to be on (by switch) when the enlarger lamp is on. I use this light for "while flashing" by setting the enlarger for highlights with the flasher off and adjusting the flasher for shadows with both lights on. The object is to add just enough light to the enlarger's that the lightest part of the image is at the paper's shadow threshold. Highlights are NOT affected by any visible amount.

    The result is as if the film had had a long toe with upsweeping curve.

    I don't use this setup very much because I use mostly VC paper.
    Gadget Gainer

  3. #33
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    I should have added that the printing exposure is made with both lights on.
    Gadget Gainer

  4. #34
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    I have to apologize. I not only got it backwards, but emphasized my mistake. I set the exposure for the SHADOWS (Zone 2 or 3) with the flashing light off, then turn the flashing light on and adjust it to give Zone 8 0r 9 in the highlights with both lights on. The highlights thus have an amount of light about equal to the threshold. The reading in the shadows is practically unchanged because the flashing illumination is a small percentage of the illumination from the enlarger in the shadows, and the Zone readings are logarithmic. The shape of the paper's H&D curve is changed so that the highlights are flattened, so it is not good to make major adjustments by flashing. This is true whether it is done in two separate exposures or in one combined exposure.
    Gadget Gainer

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