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  1. #21
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    As the Foma papers have been mentioned in the thread, does anyone know what sort of filters work with Fomabrom? I am using a LPL SG4 (should be close to Kodak #2) but would like something a little less dim. I tried to contact Foma directly but they don't answer at all.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  2. #22

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    Jerevan, you didn't specify if you're talking about Fomabrom (graded) or Fomabrom Variant (VC). In any case, you can see the spectral sensitivity of any of their papers, and compare it with the absorbency chart of your filters.

  3. #23
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Sorry, I was thinking about Fomabrom VC. I see that the pdf has been updated with more information since I last read it. It seems I read an outdated version which didn't say anything about the 610 nm wavelength. I am not sure how to interpret the information, though. Does that mean that anything with a wave length from 610 and under would work? If so, I guess my Encapsulite R10 (with a wavelength of 610 nm) would be safe?
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  4. #24

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    This paper has it's maximum spectral sensitivity at 550nm and drops to zero at about 575. Any filter that doesn't leak light with wavelengths between 550 and 575 would therefore be safe. Anything from 580nm and over sounds fine, the 610nm filter should be ok, provided that it's sharp enough. In any case, the distance between the paper and the safelight is something to consider. When you double the distance, the maximum allowed time doesn't double, it gets 4x.

  5. #25
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot, Anon! I have never really figured out those spectral charts. I'll do a test and see if there's any fogging. Eventually I think I am going to get a LED light source.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  6. #26
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    I use both. Red is by the developing trays, and is generally the only one I have on, but I also have a 0C light near the enlarger, and I turn it on as needed. I keep both of them a healthy distance of about four feet from the work area, and point the 0C into the wood ceiling instead of directly at the enlarger. The school darkroom where I learned used both as well, unless the whole class was working with litho film, in which case only the red lights would be lit.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbsc View Post
    As an aside, it occurred to me that I can put a very small compact fluorescent bulb instead of the recommended 25W incandescent as a heat controlling mechanism. I know the CF bulbs cannot safely be used as white light in the room as they have an afterglow that will fog film and paper. Is that afterglow UV, and will the #1 filter trap that making them safe?
    I've got a 3W CFL in a Kodak Beehive light with an OC filter. Results indistinguishable from a 15W incandenscent. Tested to 15 minutes (didn't try any longer) with no fogging on Fomatone or Ilford MGIV.
    Ian

  8. #28

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    VC Paper? Head for Red

    As has very likely been mentioned, VC papers are
    blue and green sensitive. Graded papers are blue
    sensitive only so any good yellow to orange-ish
    color will do.

    Graded is my choice in part because they afford
    a higher level of lighting in the visible spectrum.

    VC or Graded, light levels may be increased by
    carful handling of the paper. Dan

  9. #29
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I have a Jobo LED safelight with amber for B&W as well as lights for Agfa and Kodak color neg papers aimed at my developer tray on the wet side and a Thomas safelight with the vents closed all the way on the dry side but also illuminating the wet side, and no problems. I have an arrangement with the dry side set up in a study that I can black out and the wet side in an adjacent bathroom converted for darkroom use.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbsc View Post
    Ralph, are you saying that the #1 filter is preferred?...
    I find the #1a filter to be insufficient. Yes, I prefer and recommend the #1 filter instead. Kodak recommends #1a only for slow orthochromatic materials and lists #1 for blue-sensitive materials. Common printing papers are blue-sensitive.

    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbsc View Post
    ...As an aside, it occurred to me that I can put a very small compact fluorescent bulb instead of the recommended 25W incandescent as a heat controlling mechanism. I know the CF bulbs cannot safely be used as white light in the room as they have an afterglow that will fog film and paper. Is that afterglow UV, and will the #1 filter trap that making them safe?...
    My safelights come with a 15W recommendation. CFLs are probably OK for safelights. Their disadvantages are not a big issue in that application. Their afterglow is pretty weak. I don't see how that can hurt anything. However, I am sure they got more blue light content than incandescent bulbs. I would do a test to be sure.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

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