Interestingly the OP doesn't mention the wattage only the lens(75mm) and aperture. My Durst 605 has a 75W bulb which is less than the 100W specified but prints are less than 20 secs.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
If the bulb contacts are arcing and in the past mine have they can and should be cleaned. If the bulb is on its way out or the contacts are arcing the OP should see the light fluctuating if he watches the exposure. Faced with fluctuating light strength he'll never get a good prints.
I use 250w bulbs on enlargers rated for 150 w , basically I go through more bulbs but I like the power.
Has the enlarger been properly aligned?
Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
You really need to work with fresh paper, paper known to be fresh and not just bought yesterday. Todays papers have a life of 2 or 3 years. Time on the dealers shelf counts.
Do not ever try to save diluted paper developer.
Both of those conditions will give flat dull lifeless prints and no amount of manipulation will get the print you want.
Grab some old negs and see how they work. Also get a bulbs with proper spectral coverage.
40 Years of leaning and now this... yikes, not what a newbie printer wants to hear....
Guess it's always a learning process..... like most things.
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I would guess the problem is with your "cheap halogen bulbs". Enlarger bulbs can be expensive but at least you know they are the right ones for the job. I once put a regualr bulb in mine and couldn't figure out where the big white area in the middle of the print was coming from--turned out to be the printing on the bulb denoting wattage and manufacturer.
I'm going to tear into the enlarger had today to take a look around.
Incidently, it takes a 100 watt halogen, AND, I had trouble in the past with the bulb contacts arcing! I had to refurb the socket that the bulb plugs into, perhaps there's trouble there again! I don't notice any fluctuation during exposures, just REALLY dim....forgot to mention how tough it is to focus, even when opening up and dropping out the filtration. So thanks for thoughts around that subject, Pentaxuser.
Steve, thanks; I have a primitive way of aligning using a level (done recently), but don't seem to suffer adverse effects in focus/coverage/exposure evenness.
Bob, thanks for the thoughtful lengthy reply. I close the darkroom door and usually only have two to four negs to attempt. This is based on the roll's contact sheet, as well as eyeballing the neg on a lightbox. It just seems that my changes in density and contrast aren't anywhere near what I expected to receive. Your approach will be implemented, in part. Maybe it's all in my head (enlarger head, that is).
I use fresh chemistry during every session, keep my paper inventory frozen (but none of it was received from Freestyle more than two years ago). Cheap stuff, but I've gotten outstanding results with it in the past. I have 1 developer and two paper types (1 FB, 1RC). As standard as I can make things, 'cause that's the way I ALWAYS done it......and it worked before.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, folks. I'll check in again after dismantling the enlarger head....OH, an Agfa B66....pita to get at the bulb.
Well, That Could be Some of the Problem!
Found a cracked porcelain bulb receptacle, a cracked relector on the bulb, burned contacts inside the porcelain, and a blackened portion of the halogen lamp itself....maybe I don't suck as badly as I thought!
Now to rig it up again
Sounds like a Dichro head -
I think this enlarger takes 12V bulbs, you don't have 24V bulbs in by mistake? Is the power supply delivering 12V?
Is the filter mechanism working - has a filter dropped and stuck in place? Does the head have an ND filter that may have gotten stuck?
I think you have found the problem ...
Originally Posted by jolefler