Here is a small tutorual i have made about masking when printing medium format: http://www.tmax100.com/photo/pdf/mak...largeprint.pdf
I have done it a few times. I use a cut down piece of kodalith about 2" x5" as the mask, since I masking a b&w film at the time. Develop by inspection under red safelight for an USM, or by time and temp if you are finicky.
I made an oversized foam core 'neg holder' that mimiced my Omega B neg carrier, as a guide to show me where to use push pins, and put them where there would not be interference when the real carrier held the films.
With the lights on, push the pins though the 35mm film in the margin between frames at a spot beyond where the neg holder will come into play, but not too far away.
Then insert the Kodalith under red light, lay it on the baseboard with a diffuser to hold the 35mm and lith together, and use the enlarger as a controllable light source to get a repeatable exposure.
After mask development fix and dry put the pins though the same holes,a nd then sandwich the tow together in the neg carrier. If you want to, tape the two together at the loose end if the neg to mask is at one end of the strip of 35mm negs. The mask can be cut to match the 35mm film width after it is developed. Keep it oversized to give you somewhere outside of the image area to hold it with tongs etc.
my real name, imagine that.
Back in the days of 35mm Cibachrome enlarging, there was a re-usable contrast mask designed specifically for 35mm. I never got around to getting one so I can't comment on how well it worked.
I have done it with 35mm, 6x6 and 4x5. With a bit of training and even more patience, you can do it with a loupe, a needle to pivot and piece of tape to secure the arrangement.
Originally Posted by Michael R 1974
Take a look at a free article on masking here:
and fined more here:
Stealing Nike's slogan, just do it. I have a little jig I made for alignment, but I have a milling machine. Before that, I used a magnifier, light table, and Scotch Magic Tape. Sometimes it worked better than others. Of course if it's something you plan to do on a regular basis, purchasing a system is a lot less costly in terms of time, frustration and even possibly money over the long run.
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I agree with Neal, because it reflects my experience with masking. I did what he explains but used a needle as a pivot point to support the alignment process. In other words, pick an alignment point on one side of the negative, stick a pin into the neg, close but outside of the image area, and then rotate around that pivot point until the opposite side aligns as well. Then, tape into place!
Originally Posted by Neal
If you use masking on a regular basis, get a pin registration system. I use the one made by my friend Lynn Radeka. You'll find him on the web by searching for his name.
The contrast masks used for printing my Ilfochromes have holographic alignment strips along one edge. When the printer went belly-up, all my files, likewise all those of 30 other clients, were returned to me, and the contrast masks were the first to catch my attention.
.::Gary Rowan Higgins
One beautiful image is worth
a thousand hours of therapy.
"It is horrifying that we have to fight our own government
to save the environment."
It is do-able. I've done it with no pin registration. Just a magnifying glass and some cellophane tape. 35mm film base is quite thin so place piece of clear film between the negative and masking film for slightly more pronounced sharpness.
Definitely agree that a pin register would be the way to go! Inglis doesn't list one for 35mm, and maybe that's a hint.... But he does say custom sizes can be made on request.
Originally Posted by L Gebhardt
From what I recall the one designed for Ciba printing made the mask image in-situ. So no registration problems with 35mm. I think it required exposure to UV light through the slide. Then the sandwich was ready to use immediately. After use, the mask image could be cleared and the mask could be re-used. I don't recall the brand name of the product.